Honda S2000 Wiki - User contributions [en]

User:Sneida

2025-08-24T15:39:05Z

Sneida: /* Service History */ 2025

[[Category:S2000 Owners list]]

{| class="wikitable" style="float: right;"
| '''Year''' || 2004
|-
| '''Owner since''' || 2013
|-
| '''Odometer when bought''' || 17.700km
|-
| '''Current odometer''' || 40.200km
|-
| '''Color''' || New Formula Red
|-
| '''Country''' || Austria (EU)
|-
| '''Euromeet attendee''' || 20th Anniversary
|-
| '''Tires''' || Michelin PS4 215/245
|-
| '''Engine oil''' || Mobil1 5W-50
|-
| '''Transmission oil''' || Castrol Syntrans FE 75W
|-
| '''Differential oil''' || Castrol Syntrax LongLife 75W-90
|}

== Service History ==

=== 2013 ===
* 11.09.2013 - 17.700km: Purchase of my Honda S2000
* 29.09.2013 - 19.033km: Clutch pedal free play adjustment, new clutch fluid, Air filter (K&N), Moddiction Engine Heat Shield
* 21.11.2013 - 20.281km: Engine oil (AMSOIL Signature Series 5w-30), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004), Gearbox oil (Honda MTF3), Differential oil (M1 Mobilube1 SHC 75W-90), Modifry Glove Box Organizer

=== 2014 ===
* 23.06.2014 - 22.311km: New tires (Yokohama Advan NEOVA AD08R 225+255), New radiator (Honda 19010-PCX-013), Engine coolant (Honda Type 2 Blue 50/50)
* 16.11.2014 - 22.894km: Engine oil (LM Synthoil High Tec 5w-40), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004), Car battery (Varta Blue Dynamic)

=== 2015 ===
* 29.11.2015 - 25.675km: Engine oil (LM Synthoil High Tec 5w-40), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004), Honda S2000 Premium OEM Floor Mats
=== 2016 ===
* 20.08.2016 - 26.924km: Air filter (K&N)
* 04.12.2016 - 28.512km: Engine Oil (LM Synthoil High Tec 5w-40), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004)
=== 2017 ===
* 06.09.2017 - 32.819km: Air filter (K&N) + K&N FIPK Intake
* 09.12.2017 - 33.116km: Engine oil (M1 5w-50), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004), Gearbox oil (Castrol Syntrans FE 75W)
=== 2018 ===
* 17.03.2018 - 33.116km: Supersprint Catback Exhaust
* 15.06.2018 - 33.981km: GROM Audio Adapter (BT/AUX/USB/Mic)
* 09.11.2018 - 35.638km: Engine oil (M1 5w-50), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004)
=== 2019 ===
* 16.02.2019 - 35.640km: Car battery (Hawker Odyssey PC925), Car battery holder (JDM), Modifry Convertible Top Fix, Front brake pads (Ferodo DS Performance), Cabinet filter, Cavity and underbody preservation (Fluid Film AS-R)
* 28.05.2019 - 39.857km: Michelin PS4 (215+245)
* 30.06.2019 - 40.122km: OEM Titanium Shift Knob
* 28.07.2019 - 40.680km: Shin-Etsu (Trunk, Engine department, Soft top, Windows,...)
* 04.08.2019 - 41.041km: New K&N Airfilter and K&N FIPK / Intake
* 29.08.2010 - 42.296km: AutoTecknic Carbon Fiber Cooling Plate/Intake Snorkel
* 16.11.2019 - 43.101km: AEM Dryflow Airfilter

=== 2020 ===
* 19.03.2020 - 43.163km: HJS 200 Catalyst, Engine oil (M1 5w-50), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004), Differential oil (Castrol Syntrax LongLife 75W-90)
* 10.04.2020 - 43.353km: Spark Plugs (NGK #IFR7G-11KS)
* 23.04.2020 - 43.462km: Valve clearance adjustment
* 08.05.2020 - 43.891km: Doctronic ProECU-K-S2000, Dyno-Tune by Doctronic + ECU-Performance (Roman Kaps)
* 19.05.2020 - 44.079km: New thermostat (OEM #19301-P8E-A10), Engine coolant (Honda Type 2 Blue 50/50)
* 04.07.2020 - 46.438km: KW V3+ Suspension (with new complete OEM top hat), Drive shaft spacers, Front anti bump steer kit, Wiechers front strut bar
* 06.07.2020 - 46.527km: Rear brake pads (Ferodo DS Performance)
* 10.07.2020 - 46.650km: Rear axle nut re-torque
* 27.07.2020 - 46.748km: Alignment
* 04.08.2020 - 48.002km: Spoon Rigid Collars
* 05.08.2020 - 48.539km: Alignment and suspension setup with Wolfgang Weber
* 07.09.2020 - 49.833km: Engine oil (M1 5w-50), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004)
* 20.09.2020 - 50.018km: New exhaust rubbers (2x Powerflex EXH012, 3x Powerflex EXH015)

=== 2021 ===
* 13.03.2021 - 50.078km: New clutch fluid (ATE Typ 200)
* 04.09.2021 - 53.002km: New battery (Yuasa YBX5057)
* 25.09.2021 - 53.256km: Engine oil (M1 5w-50), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004)

=== 2022 ===
* 10.07.2022 - 54.127km: Replaced stock narrowband with wideband o2 sensor (AEM X-Series UEGO 30-0310)
* 14.08.2022 - 54.589km: ECU street tune with e-tunez.com (Richard / Steve)
* 18.09.2022 - 55.289km: Engine oil (M1 5w-50), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-004), Differential oil (Castrol Transmax Axle LongLife 75W-90), Gearbox oil (Castrol Transmax Manual FE 75W)

=== 2023 ===
* 01.10.2023 - 57.478km: Engine oil (M1 5w-50), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-306)

=== 2025 ===
* 24.08.2025 - 61.131km: Engine oil (M1 ESP X4 0W-40), Oil filter (Honda 15400-PCX-306), Differential oil (Castrol Transmax Axle LongLife 75W-90)

== Modifications ==

{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
| '''Exhaust''' || Supersprint Catback + HJS 200 Catalyst
|-
| '''Intake''' || K&N FIPK + AEM Dryflow Air filter + AutoTecknic Carbon Fiber Cooling Plate/Intake Snorkel
|-
| '''Car Battery''' || Hawker Odyssey PC925
|-
| '''Brake Pads''' || Ferodo DS Performance
|-
| '''Tires''' || Michelin PS4 (previously AD08R)
|-
| '''Suspension''' || KW V3+, Drive Shaft Spacers, Front Anti Bump Steer Kit, Wiechers front strut bar, Spoon rigid collars
|-
| '''ECU''' || Doctronic ProECU-K-S2000 + Tune/Mapping by e-tunez
|-
| '''Audio''' || GROM Audio Adapter (BT/AUX/USB/Mic)
|-
| '''OEM Parts''' || Premium Floormats + Titanium Shift Knob
|-
| '''Others (Modifry)''' || Engine Heat Shield + Convertible Top Fix + Glove Box Organizer
|}

== Still want to do/change/modify ==

Currently nothing

== Pictures ==
[[File:Sneida S2000 HUD 18.000km.jpg|thumb]] [[File:Sneida S2000 Merano Italy 2019.jpg|thumb]] [[File:Sneida S2000 Black-White Picture.jpg|thumb]]

[[File:Sneida S2000 Cleaning in Trentino Italy at Euromeet 2019.jpg|thumb]]

Clutch Fluid Replacement

2024-09-23T06:47:30Z

Sneida: /* Clutch Fluid Replacement */

== Clutch Fluid Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* Clutch fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, 500ml or more to flush and refill)
* Wrench 8mm
* Jack and jack stands
* Catch container
* Rubber tubing is recommended
* Clean rags
* Optionally a second person

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Prepare the Vehicle ===
Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake.

Jack up the car and secure it on jack stands.

=== Locate the Clutch Fluid Reservoir ===
The clutch fluid reservoir is located near the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay.

Clean around the cap to avoid contamination when opening the clutch fluid reservoir.

=== Drain Old Clutch Fluid ===
Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove old fluid from the reservoir.

Clean the reservoir with paper towels and/or cotton swabs.

Fill the reservoir with fresh clutch fluid to the MAX line.

==== Optional: Rinse and repeat ====
Optionally you can now do a short drive and repeat the process.

This helps getting more dirt out of the system before doing the bleed.

It might not even be necessary to bleed the system at all and just repeat the above steps 2-3 times.

=== Bleed the Clutch ===
There are two methods to bleeding the whole system. The gravity bleed method is recommended and usually works very well without increasing the risk of potential air in the system.

==== Gravity bleed method ====

On the underside of the car, locate the clutch slave cylinder and attach a rubber tube to the bleeder valve and put a catching container below it.

With the clutch fluid reservoir filled to MAX, slowly open the bleeder valve until clutch fluid starts to flow out. Only one full turn of the bleeder valve should be required.

While the bleeder valve is open, quickly re-fill the clutch fluid reservoir so that it never runs empty. A second person can be helpful for this.

After flushing the system for a while (~250ml to 500ml) quickly close the bleeder valve and remove everything from below the car.

Top up the clutch fluid reservoir to MAX and close it.

==== Traditional bleed method ====
On the underside of the car, locate the clutch slave cylinder and attach a rubber tube to the bleeder valve and put a catching container below it.

With the clutch fluid reservoir filled to MAX, have an assistant press the clutch pedal slowly.

Open the bleeder valve to allow the old fluid to drain into the catch container.

Close the valve when your assistant has full pressed the clutch pedal.

After closing the valve, top up the clutch fluid reservoir to MAX and have your assistant release the clutch pedal.

Repeat those steps (pressing clutch pedal, opening bleeder valve, closing bleeder valve, re-fill fluid, repeat) until the released clutch fluid contains no dirt and no bubbles.

Top up the clutch fluid reservoir to MAX and close it.

=== Final Check ===
Top off the clutch fluid reservoir as needed. Lower the car and test the clutch pedal for proper operation.

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:Clutch]]

Regular Maintenance Tasks

2024-09-01T10:09:47Z

Sneida: /* Differential oil Change */

== Regular Maintenance Tasks for Honda S2000 ==

Maintaining a [[Honda S2000]] involves a series of regular servicing and maintenance tasks that are essential for ensuring the vehicle's longevity and performance.
The following is a detailed list of common and frequently recommended maintenance tasks for the Honda S2000.

=== Engine Oil and Filter Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 5,000 to 10,000 km or 6 months, whichever comes first.
* '''Details:''' Use high-quality synthetic oil (5W-40 or 10W-30) and a genuine or high-quality [[oil filter]].

=== Transmission Oil Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 48.000 km or as recommended.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda MTF or an equivalent transmission fluid suitable for the S2000's manual gearbox.

=== Differential oil Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 24.000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use appropriate gear oil for the rear differential, often 75W-90.

=== Brake Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid for optimal performance.

=== Coolant Flush ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or 5 years.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda Long-Life Type 2 Coolant or a compatible alternative.

=== Clutch Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid, the same as the brake system.

=== Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 30,000 km or as needed.
* '''Details:''' Inspect regularly and replace if dirty or clogged.

=== Cabin Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 to 30,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Keeps the air inside the cabin clean and free of allergens.

=== Spark Plug Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use iridium or platinum spark plugs, as specified by Honda.

=== Valve Adjustment ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 40,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Adjust the valve clearances to maintain engine performance.

=== Tire Rotation and Balance ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 10,000 km or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Rotating the tires ensures even wear and prolongs tire life.

=== Wheel Alignment ===
* '''Frequency:''' As needed, typically every 30,000 km or if the car shows signs of misalignment.
* '''Details:''' Ensures proper handling and tire wear.

=== Brake Pad and Rotor Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or with each tire rotation.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear and replace pads and rotors as necessary.

=== Battery Check and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Check annually; replace every 4-5 years.
* '''Details:''' Ensure the battery is holding a charge and the terminals are clean.

=== Fuel Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 80,000 to 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Maintains fuel system efficiency and engine performance.

=== Timing Chain Tensioner Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or if there is noise.
* '''Details:''' Ensures the timing chain operates smoothly; replace if noisy or faulty.

=== Suspension and Steering Components Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Check for wear or damage to bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc.

=== Drive Belt Inspection and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Inspect every 20,000 km; replace every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear, cracks, or slack.

=== Power Steering Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 50,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda PSF or an equivalent power steering fluid.

=== Exhaust System Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Annually or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Check for leaks, corrosion, or damage.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Mobil1 5W-50

2024-08-24T09:21:06Z

Sneida:

[[Category:Oil and other fluids]]

== Mobil1 5W-50 Engine oil names ==
Currently named "Mobil1 FS X2 5W-50" but previously also known as:
* Peak Life
* Rallye Formula
* FS X1

== Description ==
Oil analysis from other [[Honda S2000]] drivers have shown that the oil is not too thick for the S2000 and that it's viscosity at @100ºC breaks down after very few kilometers of usage. 
This essentially makes it a fitting oil with the advantages of a "thin" 5W-40 while retaining the capabilities of a "durable" 5W-50.

== Datasheet specifications ==
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
| '''Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92)''' || 239
|-
| '''Pourpoint, ºC (ASTM D97)''' || -45
|-
| '''Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874)''' || 1.3
|-
| '''Total Base Number (ASTM D2896)''' || 11,8
|-
| '''HTHS, mPa•s @150ºC (ASTM D4683)''' || 4,5
|-
| '''Density, @15ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052)''' || 0,85
|-
| '''Viscosity, @40ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 101
|-
| '''Viscosity, @100ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 17,5
|-
| '''Viscosity index (DIN ISO 2909)''' || 180
|-
| '''API''' || SL/SM/SN
|-
| '''ACEA''' || A3/B3, A3/B4
|}

== Oil analysis results ==
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Date'''
|'''Kilometers used'''
|'''Iron'''
|'''Chromium'''
|'''Nickel'''
|'''Aluminium'''
|'''Copper'''
|'''Lead'''
|'''Tin'''
|'''Cadmium'''
|'''Silver'''
|'''Vandadium'''
|'''Silicon'''
|'''Sodium'''
|'''Potassium'''
|'''Titanium'''
|'''Molybedenum'''
|'''Antimony'''
|'''Manganese'''
|'''Lithium'''
|'''Boron'''
|'''Magnesium'''
|'''Calcium'''
|'''Barium'''
|'''Phosphorus'''
|'''Zinc'''
|-
|08/11/2021
|3423
|5
|0
|0
|1
|3
|0
|0
|0
|0
|0
|7
|3
|1
|0
|73
|0
|0
|0
|267
|12
|2873
|0
|826
|925
|-
|26/09/2022
|2033
|4
|0
|0
|2
|2
|1
|0
|0
|0
|0
|11
|2
|0
|0
|62
|1
|0
|0
|275
|9
|3045
|0
|927
|1025
|-
|01/10/2023
|2189
|4
|0
|0
|1
|2
|0
|0
|0
|0
|0
|16
|3
|0
|0
|73
|1
|0
|0
|315
|11
|3103
|0
|924
|1026
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Date'''
|'''Kilometers used'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Fuel Dilution'''
|'''Soot'''
|'''Water'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Viscosity 40C'''
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Viscosity 100 C'''
|'''Acid Number'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Base No D4739'''
|'''Oxidation'''
|'''Nitration'''
|'''Viscosity Index'''
|-
|08/11/2021
|3423
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |<2
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |/
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |15.50
|3.12
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |9.77
|36.00
|15.00
|/
|-
|26/09/2022
|2033
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |1.80
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |/
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |15.60
|2.70
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |9.64
|35.00
|13.00
|/
|-
|01/10/2023
|2189
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |1.40
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |93.50
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |16.00
|2.97
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |10.00
|32.00
|11.00
|184.00
|}

Mobil1 5W-50

2024-08-24T09:19:10Z

Sneida:

[[Category:Oil and other fluids]]

== Mobil1 5W-50 Engine oil names ==
Currently named "Mobil1 FS X2 5W-50" but previously also known as:
* Peak Life
* Rallye Formula
* FS X1

== Description ==
Oil analysis from other [[Honda S2000]] drivers have shown that the oil is not too thick for the S2000 and that it's viscosity at @100ºC breaks down after very few kilometers of usage. 
This essentially makes it a fitting oil with the advantages of a "thin" 5W-40 while retaining the capabilities of a "durable" 5W-50.

== Oil analysis results ==
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Date'''
|'''Kilometers used'''
|'''Iron'''
|'''Chromium'''
|'''Nickel'''
|'''Aluminium'''
|'''Copper'''
|'''Lead'''
|'''Tin'''
|'''Cadmium'''
|'''Silver'''
|'''Vandadium'''
|'''Silicon'''
|'''Sodium'''
|'''Potassium'''
|'''Titanium'''
|'''Molybedenum'''
|'''Antimony'''
|'''Manganese'''
|'''Lithium'''
|'''Boron'''
|'''Magnesium'''
|'''Calcium'''
|'''Barium'''
|'''Phosphorus'''
|'''Zinc'''
|-
|08/11/2021
|3423
|5
|0
|0
|1
|3
|0
|0
|0
|0
|0
|7
|3
|1
|0
|73
|0
|0
|0
|267
|12
|2873
|0
|826
|925
|-
|26/09/2022
|2033
|4
|0
|0
|2
|2
|1
|0
|0
|0
|0
|11
|2
|0
|0
|62
|1
|0
|0
|275
|9
|3045
|0
|927
|1025
|-
|01/10/2023
|2189
|4
|0
|0
|1
|2
|0
|0
|0
|0
|0
|16
|3
|0
|0
|73
|1
|0
|0
|315
|11
|3103
|0
|924
|1026
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Date'''
|'''Kilometers used'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Fuel Dilution'''
|'''Soot'''
|'''Water'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Viscosity 40C'''
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Viscosity 100 C'''
|'''Acid Number'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Base No D4739'''
|'''Oxidation'''
|'''Nitration'''
|'''Viscosity Index'''
|-
|08/11/2021
|3423
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |<2
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |/
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |15.50
|3.12
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |9.77
|36.00
|15.00
|/
|-
|26/09/2022
|2033
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |1.80
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |/
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |15.60
|2.70
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |9.64
|35.00
|13.00
|/
|-
|01/10/2023
|2189
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |1.40
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |93.50
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |16.00
|2.97
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |10.00
|32.00
|11.00
|184.00
|}

Engine oil

2024-08-24T09:17:05Z

Sneida:

[[Category:Oil and other fluids]]

== Material mix of engine oils ==
The main characteristics of lubrication of any oil is based on the base oil as well as the physical limits of the oil. 

The characteristics of oils can be improved with additives although this can also have a negative impact on some of the oils specification.

=== Mineral oils ===
The base of those oils is the raw oil. In order to get the characteristics of the raw oil to work with modern engines, additives are requires. Those additives will increase the flow stability, reduce foaming characteristics, cleanliness and more.

=== Semi synthetic oils ===
Synthetic oils are made of mineral oils but modified by synthetic processes in order to improve their characteristics.

=== Fully synthetic oils ===
These oils are fully syntactical created oils and do not base on mineral oils.

=== Additives ===
Additives are any additions to the oil that improve the characteristic of the oil.
e.g.:
* Flow stability
* Wear
* Corrosion
* Cleanliness
* Coking
* Sludge protection
* Deterioration
* Oxidation
* Evaporation loss
* Filterability
* Foaming characteristics
* Flashing point

However, additives can also have a negative impact on the oil such as decreasing the HTHS.

== HTHS - High Temperature High Shear ==
Since the F20C engine in the [[Honda S2000]] is a very high revving engine, it is recommended to use an oil with a highest possible HTHS. 
A higher HTHS means a lower fuel efficiency but a better lubrication during higher engine load/stress. 
Experienced Honda S2000 drivers from various communities recommended to get an oil with at least HTHS > 4,0 mPas or higher.

== Viscosity ==
Generally speaking there are single grade and multigrade oils. We will only use multigrade oils in our Honda S2000. 
Multigrade oils will have a viscosity that is thin enough for cold temperatures while still having a viscosity that is thick enough for high temperatures.

The viscosity or flow of multigrade oils is described as e.g. “10W-30”. 
The first number “10W” describes the viscosity at cold temperatures (-18°C). The “W” stands for winter. 
The second number “30” describes the viscosity at hot temperatures (+99°C). 

This means that a 5W-30 oil will be thinner on low temperatures while a 5W-40 oil will be as thin as the 5W-30 on cold temperatures but at the same time it will also be thinner on high temperatures.

== ACEA / API Classes ==
Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they have met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date. 
There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d’Automobiles). 
All good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important.

=== API ===
S = Petrol, C = Diesel, although many oils carry both classifications.

* '''SA''' - Until 1930: Contains no additives. Not suitable for use in most gasoline-powered automotive engines built after 1930.
* '''SB''' - 1930: Used for engines with low performance. Contains additives against wear, corrosion and deterioration.
* '''SC''' - 1964: Used for engines with low performance. Contains additives against coking, sludge, wear, corrosion and deterioration.
* '''SD''' - 1968: Used for engines with higher performance that were produced between 1968 and 1971.
* '''SE''' - 1971: Used for engine with high performance and high requirements. Also applicable for “Stop-and-Go”.
* '''SF''' - 1980: Used for engine with high performance and high requirements. Exceeds the SE requirements in regards to oxidation, wear, sludge protection.
* '''SG''' - 1987: Used for engines with the highest requirements with special requirements regarding oxidation and sludge protection.
* '''SH''' - 1993: Corresponds with the SG requirements. Additional higher requirements for HTHS, evaporation loss, filterability, foaming characteristics, flashing point.
* '''SJ''' - 1996: Succeeder of API-SH. Higher requirements for evaporation loss and there for less oil loss.
* '''SL''' - 2001: Succeeder of API-SJ with higher requirements regarding deterioration, flow stability, efficiency, cleaning of the engine, wear (especially at higher oil change intervals).
* '''SM''' - 2004: Succeeder of API-SL with even higher requirements for oxidation stability, cleaning of the engine, wear, deterioration and performance at low temperatures.
* '''SN''' - 2010: Succeeder of API-SM with higher temperature protection, sludge prevention, sealing compatibility, better fuel efficiency, protection for turbochargers, compatible with exhaust gas purification systems, compatible with engine that use ethanol fuel.

=== ACEA ===
A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur).

* '''A1''' - Fuel economy petrol engines with low HTHS (<3,5 mPas)
* '''A2''' - Standard performance level
* '''A3''' - High performance and/or extended drain
* '''A4''' - Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines
* '''A5''' - Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance
 
* '''B1''' - Fuel economy diesel with low HTHS
* '''B2''' - Standard performance level (now obsolete)
* '''B3''' - High performance and/or extended drain. Exceeds B2 in regards to wear, cleanliness, flow stability and grime level.
* '''B4''' - For direct injection car diesel engines (TDI)
* '''B5''' - Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance
 
* '''C1''' - Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines with diesel particulate filter (DPF).Sulfating ash max. 0,5%. With lower HTHS.
* '''C2''' - Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines with diesel particulate filter (DPF).Sulfating ash max. 0,8%, HTHS > 2,9 mPas
* '''C3''' - Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines with diesel particulate filter (DPF).Sulfating ash max. 0,8%, HTHS > 3,5 mPas

== Shelf life / expiry date of new oil ==
Oil producers test their oils for stability of at least 36 months. That means any oil is demonstrably fine to use within an age of 36 months. 
This refers to closed oil containers! There is no guarantee once the container is opened. 
Store your oil in dark and dry places at relatively low temperatures. 

== Mixing different oils ==
Generally you can mix fully synthetic oils. 
However, it might lead to unknown results which is why it might not be the best solution. 
You should never mix fully synthetic oils with semi-synthetic or mineral oils!

== How to make sure no old oil is remaining / exchanging 100% of the old oil with new oil ==
* Do three oil changes in a row and if possible drive the car between each changing cycle for a short time.
This guarantees almost 100% that no old oil is left in your transmission/engine/differential and that it has been exchanged completely with new oil. 
The same procedure is used by oil companies between test cycles in their R&D facilities. 
You might want to do this when changing to a different type or brand of oil.

== Reading the oil level dipstick correctly ==
One of the common faults when reading the oil level by using the oil dipstick is to remove the dipstick only once from the engine and go with the first reading of the dipstick.
This causes two problems:
# The dipstick will show to different oil levels, depending on which site of the dipstick you are looking at
# There is a good chance that remaining excess oil will be on the dipstick

In order to get a correct reading of the oil level dipstick proceed like this:
# Make sure the engine is warm since the oil will expand under heat
# Position the car on an even surface
# Turn off the engine and let it sit for about 10 minutes
# Remove the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel. Repeat this step 3 times.
# The 4th time you remove the dipstick, read the oil level from both sites of the dipstick. This will be your definite oil level.

== OEM Specifications ==
* Fully synthetic oil
* 10W-30 for summer usage only (-20°C to +40°C)
* 5W-40 if also driven during the winter (-30°C to +40°C)
* API SJ or better (such as API SL or SM or SN)

== Recommendations ==
Generally speaking you want:
* The highest possible flashing point
* The lowest possible pour point
* The lowest possible sulphated ash
* The highest possible total base number
* The highest possible HTHS

Throughout the experience of many S2000 communities and drivers the following engine oils seem to be recommended and to have gained positive feedback:

=== Mobil1 5W-50 (Rallye Formula, Peak Life, X1 FS) ===
Currently named "Mobil1 FS X1 5W-50" but previously also known as "Rallye Formula" and "Peak Life". 
Oil analysis from other Honda S2000 drivers have shown that the oil is not too thick for the S2000 and that it's viscosity at @100ºC breaks down to 14,5 after very few kilometers of usage. 
This essentially makes it a fitting oil with the advantages of a "thin" 5W-40 while retaining the capabilities of a "durable" 5W-50. 
 
Further details and as well as oil analysis can be found in [[Mobil1_5W-50]] 

{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
| '''Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92)''' || 239
|-
| '''Pourpoint, ºC (ASTM D97)''' || -45
|-
| '''Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874)''' || 1.3
|-
| '''Total Base Number (ASTM D2896)''' || 11,8
|-
| '''HTHS, mPa•s @150ºC (ASTM D4683)''' || 4,5
|-
| '''Density, @15ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052)''' || 0,85
|-
| '''Viscosity, @40ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 101
|-
| '''Viscosity, @100ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 17,5
|-
| '''Viscosity index (DIN ISO 2909)''' || 180
|-
| '''API''' || SL/SM/SN
|-
| '''ACEA''' || A3/B3, A3/B4
|}

=== Motul 300V Power 5w-40 ===

{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
| '''Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92)''' || 230
|-
| '''Pourpoint, ºC (ASTM D97)''' || -45
|-
| '''Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874)''' || n.a.
|-
| '''Total Base Number (ASTM D2896)''' || 8,25
|-
| '''HTHS, mPa•s @150ºC (ASTM D4683)''' || 4,1
|-
| '''Density, @15ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052)''' || 0,86
|-
| '''Viscosity, @40ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 81,8
|-
| '''Viscosity, @100ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 13,6
|-
| '''Viscosity index (DIN ISO 2909)''' || 174
|-
| '''API''' || n.a.
|-
| '''ACEA''' || n.a.
|}

=== AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic 5W-30 ===
Often recommended in the US.

{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
| '''Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92)''' || 220
|-
| '''Pourpoint, ºC (ASTM D97)''' || -50
|-
| '''Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874)''' || 1,47 (?)
|-
| '''Total Base Number (ASTM D2896)''' || 12,5
|-
| '''HTHS, mPa•s @150ºC (ASTM D4683)''' || 3,11
|-
| '''Density, @15ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052)''' || n.a.
|-
| '''Viscosity, @40ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 59,7
|-
| '''Viscosity, @100ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 10,3
|-
| '''Viscosity index (DIN ISO 2909)''' || 162
|-
| '''API''' || SM/SN
|-
| '''ACEA''' || A5/B5
|}

=== AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic 5W-50 ===
Seems to have better specifications than the 5W-30 version.

{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
| '''Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92)''' || 224
|-
| '''Pourpoint, ºC (ASTM D97)''' || -48
|-
| '''Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874)''' || n.a.
|-
| '''Total Base Number (ASTM D2896)''' || 12,5
|-
| '''HTHS, mPa•s @150ºC (ASTM D4683)''' || 4,45
|-
| '''Density, @15ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052)''' || n.a.
|-
| '''Viscosity, @40ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 119,5
|-
| '''Viscosity, @100ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 19,4
|-
| '''Viscosity index (DIN ISO 2909)''' || 185
|-
| '''API''' || SN
|-
| '''ACEA''' || n.a.
|}

=== Liqui Moly Synthoil HighTech 5W-40 ===
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
| '''Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92)''' || 230
|-
| '''Pourpoint, ºC (ASTM D97)''' || -45
|-
| '''Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874)''' || 1.0 - 1.6
|-
| '''Total Base Number (ASTM D2896)''' || 10,5
|-
| '''HTHS, mPa•s @150ºC (ASTM D4683)''' || >= 3,5
|-
| '''Density, @15ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052)''' || 0,85
|-
| '''Viscosity, @40ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 90.2
|-
| '''Viscosity, @100ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 14,5
|-
| '''Viscosity index (DIN ISO 2909)''' || 167
|-
| '''API''' || SM
|-
| '''ACEA''' || A3/B4
|}

=== Castrol Edge 5W-40 (with red cap) ===
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center;"
| '''Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92)''' || 207
|-
| '''Pourpoint, ºC (ASTM D97)''' || -42
|-
| '''Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874)''' || 0,8
|-
| '''Total Base Number (ASTM D2896)''' || n.a.
|-
| '''HTHS, mPa•s @150ºC (ASTM D4683)''' || n.a.
|-
| '''Density, @15ºC, g/ml (ASTM D4052)''' || 0,85
|-
| '''Viscosity, @40ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 75
|-
| '''Viscosity, @100ºC, (ASTM D445)''' || 13,0
|-
| '''Viscosity index (DIN ISO 2909)''' || 174
|-
| '''API''' || SN
|-
| '''ACEA''' || C3
|}

Mobil1 5W-50

2024-08-24T09:16:14Z

Sneida:

[[Category:Oil and other fluids]]

== Mobil1 5W-50 Engine oil names ==
Currently named "Mobil1 FS X2 5W-50" but previously also known as:
* Peak Life
* Rallye Formula
* FS X1

== Description ==
Oil analysis from other [[Honda S2000]] drivers have shown that the oil is not too thick for the S2000 and that it's viscosity at @100ºC breaks down to 14,5 after very few kilometers of usage. 
This essentially makes it a fitting oil with the advantages of a "thin" 5W-40 while retaining the capabilities of a "durable" 5W-50.

== Oil analysis results ==
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Date'''
|'''Kilometers used'''
|'''Iron'''
|'''Chromium'''
|'''Nickel'''
|'''Aluminium'''
|'''Copper'''
|'''Lead'''
|'''Tin'''
|'''Cadmium'''
|'''Silver'''
|'''Vandadium'''
|'''Silicon'''
|'''Sodium'''
|'''Potassium'''
|'''Titanium'''
|'''Molybedenum'''
|'''Antimony'''
|'''Manganese'''
|'''Lithium'''
|'''Boron'''
|'''Magnesium'''
|'''Calcium'''
|'''Barium'''
|'''Phosphorus'''
|'''Zinc'''
|-
|08/11/2021
|3423
|5
|0
|0
|1
|3
|0
|0
|0
|0
|0
|7
|3
|1
|0
|73
|0
|0
|0
|267
|12
|2873
|0
|826
|925
|-
|26/09/2022
|2033
|4
|0
|0
|2
|2
|1
|0
|0
|0
|0
|11
|2
|0
|0
|62
|1
|0
|0
|275
|9
|3045
|0
|927
|1025
|-
|01/10/2023
|2189
|4
|0
|0
|1
|2
|0
|0
|0
|0
|0
|16
|3
|0
|0
|73
|1
|0
|0
|315
|11
|3103
|0
|924
|1026
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Date'''
|'''Kilometers used'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Fuel Dilution'''
|'''Soot'''
|'''Water'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Viscosity 40C'''
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Viscosity 100 C'''
|'''Acid Number'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Base No D4739'''
|'''Oxidation'''
|'''Nitration'''
|'''Viscosity Index'''
|-
|08/11/2021
|3423
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |<2
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |/
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |15.50
|3.12
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |9.77
|36.00
|15.00
|/
|-
|26/09/2022
|2033
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |1.80
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |/
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |15.60
|2.70
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |9.64
|35.00
|13.00
|/
|-
|01/10/2023
|2189
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |1.40
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |93.50
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |16.00
|2.97
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |10.00
|32.00
|11.00
|184.00
|}

Mobil1 5W-50

2024-08-24T09:15:57Z

Sneida:

[[Category:Oil and other fluids]]

== Mobil1 5W-50 Engine oil names ==
Currently named "Mobil1 FS X2 5W-50" but previously also known as:
* Peak Life
* Rallye Formula
* FS X1

== Description ==
Oil analysis from other [[Honda S2000]] drivers have shown that the oil is not too thick for the S2000 and that it's viscosity at @100ºC breaks down to 14,5 after very few kilometers of usage. 
This essentially makes it a fitting oil with the advantages of a "thin" 5W-40 while retaining the capabilities of a "durable" 5W-50.

=== Oil analysis results ===
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Date'''
|'''Kilometers used'''
|'''Iron'''
|'''Chromium'''
|'''Nickel'''
|'''Aluminium'''
|'''Copper'''
|'''Lead'''
|'''Tin'''
|'''Cadmium'''
|'''Silver'''
|'''Vandadium'''
|'''Silicon'''
|'''Sodium'''
|'''Potassium'''
|'''Titanium'''
|'''Molybedenum'''
|'''Antimony'''
|'''Manganese'''
|'''Lithium'''
|'''Boron'''
|'''Magnesium'''
|'''Calcium'''
|'''Barium'''
|'''Phosphorus'''
|'''Zinc'''
|-
|08/11/2021
|3423
|5
|0
|0
|1
|3
|0
|0
|0
|0
|0
|7
|3
|1
|0
|73
|0
|0
|0
|267
|12
|2873
|0
|826
|925
|-
|26/09/2022
|2033
|4
|0
|0
|2
|2
|1
|0
|0
|0
|0
|11
|2
|0
|0
|62
|1
|0
|0
|275
|9
|3045
|0
|927
|1025
|-
|01/10/2023
|2189
|4
|0
|0
|1
|2
|0
|0
|0
|0
|0
|16
|3
|0
|0
|73
|1
|0
|0
|315
|11
|3103
|0
|924
|1026
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Date'''
|'''Kilometers used'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Fuel Dilution'''
|'''Soot'''
|'''Water'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Viscosity 40C'''
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Viscosity 100 C'''
|'''Acid Number'''
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |'''Base No D4739'''
|'''Oxidation'''
|'''Nitration'''
|'''Viscosity Index'''
|-
|08/11/2021
|3423
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |<2
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |/
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |15.50
|3.12
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |9.77
|36.00
|15.00
|/
|-
|26/09/2022
|2033
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |1.80
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |/
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |15.60
|2.70
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |9.64
|35.00
|13.00
|/
|-
|01/10/2023
|2189
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |1.40
|<.1
|<.1
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |93.50
|
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |16.00
|2.97
| colspan="2" rowspan="1" |10.00
|32.00
|11.00
|184.00
|}

Mobil1 5W-50

2024-08-24T09:15:25Z

Sneida: Created page with "Category:Oil and other fluids == Mobil1 5W-50 Engine oil names == Currently named "Mobil1 FS X2 5W-50" but previously also known as: * Peak Life * Rallye Formula * FS X1 == Description == Oil analysis from other Honda S2000 drivers have shown that the oil is not too thick for the S2000 and that it's viscosity at @100ºC breaks down to 14,5 after very few kilometers of usage. This essentially makes it a fitting oil with the advantages of a "thin" 5W-40 while ret..."

Power Steering Fluid Replacement

2024-08-14T08:31:27Z

Sneida: Created page with "== Power Steering Fluid Replacement == === Tools and Materials Needed === * Power steering fluid (Honda PSF or equivalent) * Syringe or turkey baster * Funnel * Clean rags === Step-by-Step Instructions === === Locate the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir === Open the hood and locate the power steering fluid reservoir on the driver's side of the engine bay. === Remove Old Fluid === Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove old fluid from the reservoir. Clean the reservoir..."

== Power Steering Fluid Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* Power steering fluid (Honda PSF or equivalent)
* Syringe or turkey baster
* Funnel
* Clean rags

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Locate the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir ===
Open the hood and locate the power steering fluid reservoir on the driver's side of the engine bay.

=== Remove Old Fluid ===
Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove old fluid from the reservoir. Clean the reservoir to remove any contaminants.

=== Refill with New Fluid ===
Fill the reservoir with the recommended power steering fluid. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times to remove any air from the system.

=== Final Check ===
Check the fluid level and top off if necessary. Inspect for any leaks around the reservoir and power steering lines.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Drive Belt Inspection and Replacement

2024-08-14T08:31:14Z

Sneida: Created page with "== Drive Belt Inspection and Replacement == === Tools and Materials Needed === * New drive belt (if replacement is needed) * Wrenches (14 mm) * Torque wrench === Step-by-Step Instructions === === Prepare the Vehicle === Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Allow the engine to cool. === Inspect the Drive Belt === Open the hood and locate the drive belt. Inspect the belt for cracks, fraying, or glazing. === Replace the Drive Belt (if needed) =..."

== Drive Belt Inspection and Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* New drive belt (if replacement is needed)
* Wrenches (14 mm)
* Torque wrench

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Prepare the Vehicle ===
Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Allow the engine to cool.

=== Inspect the Drive Belt ===
Open the hood and locate the drive belt. Inspect the belt for cracks, fraying, or glazing.

=== Replace the Drive Belt (if needed) ===
If the belt is worn, use a wrench to release tension on the belt tensioner. Remove the old belt from the pulleys. Route the new belt over the pulleys according to the belt routing diagram. Release the tensioner to apply tension to the new belt.

=== Final Check ===
Start the engine and check the belt's operation. Ensure that the belt is properly tensioned and that there are no unusual noises.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Timing Chain Tensioner Inspection

2024-08-14T08:31:00Z

Sneida: Created page with "== Timing Chain Tensioner Inspection == === Tools and Materials Needed === * Wrenches (various sizes) * Torque wrench * Clean rags === Step-by-Step Instructions === === Prepare the Vehicle === Park the car on a level surface. Allow the engine to cool completely. === Access the Timing Chain Tensioner === Remove any necessary engine covers or components to gain access to the timing chain tensioner, located on the passenger side of the engine. === Inspect the Tensioner..."

== Timing Chain Tensioner Inspection ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* Wrenches (various sizes)
* Torque wrench
* Clean rags

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Prepare the Vehicle ===
Park the car on a level surface. Allow the engine to cool completely.

=== Access the Timing Chain Tensioner ===
Remove any necessary engine covers or components to gain access to the timing chain tensioner, located on the passenger side of the engine.

=== Inspect the Tensioner ===
Check the tensioner for signs of wear, such as excessive slack or unusual noises. Inspect the tensioner body for any oil leaks. Ensure that the tensioner is applying the correct amount of tension to the timing chain.

=== Final Check ===
If the tensioner appears to be in good condition, reassemble the engine components. Torque all bolts to the manufacturer's specifications (usually 10 Nm for small bolts). Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises.

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:TCT]]
[[Category:Timing Chain Tensioner]]

Fuel Filter Replacement

2024-08-14T08:30:34Z

Sneida: Created page with "== Fuel Filter Replacement == === Tools and Materials Needed === * New fuel filter * Wrenches (10 mm and 14 mm) * Catch container * Rags * Safety glasses and gloves === Step-by-Step Instructions === === Prepare the Vehicle === Relieve the fuel system pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse and running the engine until it stalls. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. === Locate the Fuel Filter === The fuel filter is typically located along the fuel line under the..."

== Fuel Filter Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* New fuel filter
* Wrenches (10 mm and 14 mm)
* Catch container
* Rags
* Safety glasses and gloves

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Prepare the Vehicle ===
Relieve the fuel system pressure by removing the fuel pump fuse and running the engine until it stalls. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

=== Locate the Fuel Filter ===
The fuel filter is typically located along the fuel line under the car or near the fuel tank.

=== Remove the Old Fuel Filter ===
Place a catch container under the filter to catch any fuel that spills. Loosen the fittings on both ends of the filter using wrenches. Remove the old filter, being careful of any remaining fuel.

=== Install the New Fuel Filter ===
Install the new filter in the correct orientation (pay attention to the flow direction marked on the filter). Tighten the fittings securely.

=== Final Check ===
Reconnect the fuel pump fuse and battery terminal. Start the engine and check for leaks.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Tire Rotation and Balance

2024-08-14T08:30:10Z

Sneida: Created page with "== Tire Rotation and Balance == === Tools and Materials Needed === * Jack and jack stands * Lug wrench * Torque wrench * Tire balancing machine (for balancing) === Step-by-Step Instructions === === Prepare the Vehicle === Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on all four wheels. === Jack Up the Vehicle === Use a jack to lift the car and secure it on jack stands. === Rotate the Tires === Rotate the tires according to the re..."

== Tire Rotation and Balance ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* Jack and jack stands
* Lug wrench
* Torque wrench
* Tire balancing machine (for balancing)

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Prepare the Vehicle ===
Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on all four wheels.

=== Jack Up the Vehicle ===
Use a jack to lift the car and secure it on jack stands.

=== Rotate the Tires ===
Rotate the tires according to the recommended pattern for the [[Honda S2000]] (front to rear, rear to front). Reattach the wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

=== Balance the Tires (if necessary) ===
If the tires are out of balance, use a tire balancing machine to correct the imbalance. Reinstall the tires on the vehicle.

=== Final Check ===
Lower the car and torque the lug nuts to 108 Nm. Test drive the vehicle to ensure smooth operation.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Spark Plug Replacement

2024-08-14T08:29:57Z

Sneida:

== Spark Plug Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* New spark plugs (NGK IFR7G-11KS recommended)
* Ratchet and spark plug socket (16 mm)
* Spark plug gap tool
* Anti-seize compound (optional)
* Torque wrench

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Access the Spark Plugs ===
Open the hood and locate the ignition coils on top of the engine.

=== Remove the Ignition Coils ===
Disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition coils. Remove the bolts securing the coils (10 mm), and gently pull the coils out to access the spark plugs.

=== Remove the Old Spark Plugs ===
Use a ratchet and spark plug socket to remove the old plugs. Inspect the old plugs for wear or deposits.

=== Prepare and Install the New Spark Plugs ===
Check the gap on the new plugs using a gap tool (0.8-0.9 mm). Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads (optional). Install the new plugs by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten them with a torque wrench to 22 Nm.

=== Reconnect the Ignition Coils ===
Reattach the ignition coils and secure them with the bolts. Reconnect the electrical connectors.

=== Final Check ===
Start the engine to ensure smooth operation.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Cabin Air Filter Replacement

2024-08-14T08:29:45Z

Sneida:

== Cabin Air Filter Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* New cabin air filter
* Screwdriver (if necessary)

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Locate the Cabin Air Filter Compartment ===
The cabin air filter is usually located behind the glove compartment.

=== Access the Filter ===
Open the glove compartment and remove any contents. Release the stops on either side to allow the glove compartment to hang freely. Locate the cabin filter cover and remove it.

=== Remove the Old Filter ===
Slide the old filter out of the compartment. Check for excessive dirt or debris.

=== Install the New Filter ===
Insert the new filter, ensuring the airflow direction is correct (usually marked with an arrow). Replace the cover and secure the glove compartment.

=== Final Check ===
Ensure the glove compartment is properly closed. Test the air conditioning system to ensure proper airflow.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Air Filter Replacement

2024-08-14T08:29:27Z

Sneida:

== Air Filter Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* New air filter
* Screwdriver (if necessary)
* Clean rag

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Locate the Air Filter Housing ===
The air filter is usually housed in a black plastic box near the front of the engine bay on the passenger side.

=== Open the Air Filter Housing ===
Release the clips or screws securing the cover. Lift the cover to expose the air filter.

=== Remove and Inspect the Old Air Filter ===
Lift the old air filter out of the housing. Check it for dirt and debris.

=== Install the New Air Filter ===
Place the new filter into the housing, ensuring it is seated correctly. Replace the cover and secure it with clips or screws.

=== Final Check ===
Ensure the housing is properly closed. Start the engine to check for proper air intake.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Clutch Fluid Replacement

2024-08-14T08:29:11Z

Sneida:

== Clutch Fluid Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* Clutch fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, 200 ml to 500 ml)
* Wrenches (10 mm and 11 mm)
* Jack and jack stands
* Catch container
* Rubber tubing
* Clean rags

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Prepare the Vehicle ===
Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Jack up the front of the car and secure it on jack stands.

=== Locate the Clutch Fluid Reservoir ===
The clutch fluid reservoir is located near the brake fluid reservoir in the engine bay. Clean around the cap to avoid contamination.

=== Drain Old Clutch Fluid ===
Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove old fluid from the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with fresh clutch fluid to the MAX line.

=== Bleed the Clutch ===
Locate the clutch slave cylinder and attach a rubber tube to the bleeder valve. Have an assistant press the clutch pedal slowly. Open the bleeder valve to allow the old fluid to drain into the catch container. Close the valve when no air bubbles are visible. Repeat until the fluid runs clear and free of air bubbles.

=== Final Check ===
Top off the clutch fluid reservoir as needed. Lower the car and test the clutch pedal for proper operation.

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:Clutch]]

Brake Fluid Replacement

2024-08-14T08:28:53Z

Sneida:

== Brake Fluid Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4, 500 ml to 1 liter)
* Brake bleeder kit
* Wrenches (10 mm and 11 mm)
* Jack and jack stands
* Wheel chocks
* Catch container
* Rubber tubing
* Clean rags

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

=== Prepare the Vehicle ===
Ensure the car is parked on a level surface. Securely jack up the car and place it on jack stands. Remove all four wheels to access the brake calipers.

=== Locate the Brake Fluid Reservoir ===
Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir on the driver's side of the engine bay. Clean the area around the cap to prevent contamination.

=== Drain Old Brake Fluid ===
Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid to the MAX line.

=== Bleed the Brakes ===
Starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder (usually the rear passenger side), attach a rubber tube to the bleeder valve and place the other end in a catch container. Have an assistant press the brake pedal slowly. Open the bleeder valve slightly and allow the old fluid to drain. Close the valve when no air bubbles are visible. Repeat the process for all four brakes, ensuring the fluid level in the reservoir never drops too low.

=== Final Check ===
Once all four brakes are bled, check the fluid level in the reservoir and top it off if necessary. Reattach the wheels and lower the car. Torque the lug nuts to 108 Nm. Test the brake pedal for firmness before driving.

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:Brake]]

Spark Plug Replacement

2024-08-14T08:21:44Z

Sneida: Created page with "= Spark Plug Replacement = == Tools and Materials Needed == * New spark plugs * Ratchet and spark plug socket * Spark plug gap tool * Anti-seize compound (optional) * Torque wrench == Step-by-Step Instructions == === Access the Spark Plugs === Open the hood and locate the ignition coils or spark plug wires. === Remove the Ignition Coils/Wires === Disconnect the ignition coils or spark plug wires from the plugs. === Remove the Old Spark Plugs === Use a ratchet and sp..."

= Spark Plug Replacement =

== Tools and Materials Needed ==
* New spark plugs
* Ratchet and spark plug socket
* Spark plug gap tool
* Anti-seize compound (optional)
* Torque wrench

== Step-by-Step Instructions ==

=== Access the Spark Plugs ===
Open the hood and locate the ignition coils or spark plug wires.

=== Remove the Ignition Coils/Wires ===
Disconnect the ignition coils or spark plug wires from the plugs.

=== Remove the Old Spark Plugs ===
Use a ratchet and spark plug socket to remove the old plugs. Inspect the old plugs for wear or deposits.

=== Prepare and Install the New Spark Plugs ===
Check the gap on the new plugs using a gap tool and adjust if necessary. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the threads (optional). Install the new plugs by hand to avoid cross-threading, then tighten them with a torque wrench to 24 lb-fts or 23Nm.

=== Reconnect the Ignition Coils/Wires ===
Reattach the ignition coils or spark plug wires to the new plugs.

=== Final Check ===
Start the engine to ensure smooth operation.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Cabin Air Filter Replacement

2024-08-14T08:19:26Z

Sneida: Created page with "= Cabin Air Filter Replacement = == Tools and Materials Needed == * New cabin air filter * Screwdriver (if necessary) == Step-by-Step Instructions == === Locate the Cabin Air Filter Compartment === The cabin air filter is usually located behind the glove compartment. === Access the Filter === Open the glove compartment and remove any contents. Release the stops on either side to allow the glove compartment to hang freely. Locate the cabin filter cover and remove it...."

= Cabin Air Filter Replacement =

== Tools and Materials Needed ==
* New cabin air filter
* Screwdriver (if necessary)

== Step-by-Step Instructions ==

=== Locate the Cabin Air Filter Compartment ===
The cabin air filter is usually located behind the glove compartment.

=== Access the Filter ===
Open the glove compartment and remove any contents. Release the stops on either side to allow the glove compartment to hang freely. Locate the cabin filter cover and remove it.

=== Remove the Old Filter ===
Slide the old filter out of the compartment. Check for excessive dirt or debris.

=== Install the New Filter ===
Insert the new filter, ensuring the airflow direction is correct. Replace the cover and secure the glove compartment.

=== Final Check ===
Ensure the glove compartment is properly closed. Test the air conditioning system to ensure proper airflow.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Air Filter Replacement

2024-08-14T08:19:15Z

Sneida: Created page with "= Air Filter Replacement = == Tools and Materials Needed == * New air filter * Screwdriver (if necessary) * Clean rag == Step-by-Step Instructions == === Locate the Air Filter Housing === The air filter is usually housed in a black plastic box near the front of the engine bay. === Open the Air Filter Housing === Release the clips or screws securing the cover. Lift the cover to expose the air filter. === Remove and Inspect the Old Air Filter === Lift the old air filt..."

= Air Filter Replacement =

== Tools and Materials Needed ==
* New air filter
* Screwdriver (if necessary)
* Clean rag

== Step-by-Step Instructions ==

=== Locate the Air Filter Housing ===
The air filter is usually housed in a black plastic box near the front of the engine bay.

=== Open the Air Filter Housing ===
Release the clips or screws securing the cover. Lift the cover to expose the air filter.

=== Remove and Inspect the Old Air Filter ===
Lift the old air filter out of the housing. Check it for dirt and debris.

=== Install the New Air Filter ===
Place the new filter into the housing, ensuring it is seated correctly. Replace the cover and secure it with clips or screws.

=== Final Check ===
Ensure the housing is properly closed. Start the engine to check for proper air intake.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Clutch Fluid Replacement

2024-08-14T08:19:00Z

Sneida: Created page with "= Clutch Fluid Replacement = == Tools and Materials Needed == * Clutch fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid) * Wrenches (various sizes) * Jack and jack stands * Catch container * Rubber tubing * Clean rags == Step-by-Step Instructions == === Prepare the Vehicle === Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Jack up the front of the car and secure it on jack stands. === Locate the Clutch Fluid Reservoir === The clutch fluid reservoir is usually located..."

= Clutch Fluid Replacement =

== Tools and Materials Needed ==
* Clutch fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid)
* Wrenches (various sizes)
* Jack and jack stands
* Catch container
* Rubber tubing
* Clean rags

== Step-by-Step Instructions ==

=== Prepare the Vehicle ===
Park the car on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Jack up the front of the car and secure it on jack stands.

=== Locate the Clutch Fluid Reservoir ===
The clutch fluid reservoir is usually located near the brake fluid reservoir. Clean around the cap to avoid contamination.

=== Drain Old Clutch Fluid ===
Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove old fluid from the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with fresh clutch fluid.

=== Bleed the Clutch ===
Locate the clutch slave cylinder and attach a rubber tube to the bleeder valve. Have an assistant press the clutch pedal slowly. Open the bleeder valve to allow the old fluid to drain into the catch container. Close the valve when no air bubbles are visible. Repeat until the fluid runs clear and free of air bubbles.

=== Final Check ===
Top off the clutch fluid reservoir as needed. Lower the car and test the clutch pedal for proper operation.

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:Clutch]]

Brake Fluid Replacement

2024-08-14T08:18:18Z

Sneida:

= Brake Fluid Replacement =

== Tools and Materials Needed ==
* Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4)
* Brake bleeder kit
* Wrenches (various sizes)
* Jack and jack stands
* Wheel chocks
* Catch container
* Rubber tubing
* Clean rags

== Step-by-Step Instructions ==

=== Prepare the Vehicle ===
Ensure the car is parked on a level surface. Securely jack up the car and place it on jack stands. Remove all four wheels to access the brake calipers.

=== Locate the Brake Fluid Reservoir ===
Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Clean the area around the cap to prevent contamination.

=== Drain Old Brake Fluid ===
Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid.

=== Bleed the Brakes ===
Starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder (usually the rear passenger side), attach a rubber tube to the bleeder valve and place the other end in a catch container. Have an assistant press the brake pedal slowly. Open the bleeder valve slightly and allow the old fluid to drain. Close the valve when no air bubbles are visible. Repeat the process for all four brakes, ensuring the fluid level in the reservoir never drops too low.

=== Final Check ===
Once all four brakes are bled, check the fluid level in the reservoir and top it off if necessary. Reattach the wheels and lower the car. Test the brake pedal for firmness before driving.

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:Brake]]

Transmission Oil Change

2024-08-14T08:17:56Z

Sneida:

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:Transmission]]

== [[Transmission Oil|Transmission oil]] change intervals ==
The owners and [[Service Manual|service manual]] recommends the following intervals:
* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 144.000km / 90.000miles or 6 years (which ever comes first)
* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Every 48.000km / 30.000miles or 6 months (which ever comes first)

=== Definition of harsh driving conditions ===
The service manual states the following definition:
* Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
* Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freezing temperatures.
* In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
* Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
* Driving on mountainous roads.
* On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads. 
 
Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:
* Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagement.
* Long periods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
* Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).

== Recommended transmission oil ==
See: [[Transmission oil#Recommendations|Transmission oil recommendations]]

== Required tools and fluids ==
* 1,6L/1,6qts [[transmission oil]] (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the transmission)
* New crush [[washer]] for the oil drain bolt (Honda #91409-14000 / 14/24/Aluminium / See: [[Washer#Transmission_oil_drain_bolt]])
* New crush washer for the oil filling bolt (Honda #91409-20000 / 20/x/Aluminium / See: [[Washer#Transmission_oil_filling_bolt]])
* 17mm socket
* Ratchet
* Torque wrench (40Nm / 29 lb-ft and 44Nm / 33 lb-ft)
* Oil catch pan
* Floor jack + 4 jack stands
* A lube pump since it is hard to fill the transmission without it

== How to change the transmission oil ==

=== Pre-conditions and jacking up the car ===
* Before you start it might be a good idea to drive the car for a while to increase the temperature of the oil in the transmission.
* Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
* Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
* There are two front-jacking-points on each side. Place one jack stand on each side at the jacking-point that is the furthest away from the front wheel.
* Lower and remove your floor jack and continue jacking up the rear by using the jacking point on the differential.
* Place your jack stands on the left and right side jacking points at the rear of the car.

=== Draining the oil ===
* The transmission is located behind the engine and has two bolts (drain and filling) on the drivers side.
* The lower bolt is the drain bolt while the upper one is the filling bolt.
* Place your oil catch pan below the transmission drain bolt.
* It is a good idea to first remove the filling bolt and afterwards the draining bolt. This ensures that the filling bolt is not stuck and prevents you from ending up with a drained transmission that you can't re-fill.
* First remove the transmission oil filling bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission.
* Next remove the transmission oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission.
* The old transmission oil will now drain from the transmission and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
* You will notice that once the filling bolt is completely gone, more oil will come out of the transmission oil drain.
 
* Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the transmission to "rinse or flush" the transmission with the new oil.
* Wait until no oil (either old or new from "rinsing") comes out of the transmission.

=== Adding new transmission oil ===
* Replace the old crush washer from the transmission oil drain bolt.
* Usually the crush washer will have two sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the transmission.
* Hand tighten the transmission oil drain bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 40Nm / 29 lb-ft.
* Fill in the transmission oil through the filling hole until the new transmission oil starts to leak out of the filling hole.
* This is the indicator that there is enough transmission oil in the transmission (usually 1,6L / 1,6qts).
* Replace the old crush washer from the transmission oil filling bolt.
* Usually the crush washer will have to sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the transmission.
* Hand tighten the transmission oil filling bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 44Nm / 33 lb-ft.

== How to make sure no old transmission oil is left in the transmission ==
This guarantees almost 100% that no old transmission oil is left in your transmission and that it has been exchanged completely with new oil. 
The same procedure is used by oil companies between test cycles in their R&D facilities. 
You might want to do this when changing to a different type or brand of oil.
* Repeat the steps [[Changing transmission oil#How_to_change_the_transmission_oil|How to change the transmission oil]] three times and drive your car for a short time between each changing cycle.

Differential Oil Change

2024-08-14T08:17:03Z

Sneida:

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:Differential]]

== Differential oil change intervals ==
The owners and [[Service Manual|service manual]] recommends the following intervals:
* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 48.000km / 30.000miles or 2 years (which ever comes first)
* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Every 24.000km / 15.000miles or 1 year (which ever comes first)

=== Definition of harsh driving conditions ===
The [[Service Manual|service manual]] states the following definition:
* Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
* Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freezing temperatures.
* In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
* Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
* Driving on mountainous roads.
* On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads. 
 
Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:
* Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagement.
* Long periods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
* Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).

== Recommended differential oil ==
See: [[Differential oil#Recommendations|Differential oil recommendations]]

== Required tools and fluids ==
* 0,8L/0,8qts [[differential oil]] (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the differential)
* New crush [[washer]] for the oil drain bolt (Honda #90401-PCZ-003 / 18/x/Aluminium / See: [[Washer#Differential_oil_drain_bolt]])
* New crush washer for the oil filling bolt (Honda #90402-PCZ-003 / 18/x/Copper / See: [[Washer#Differential_oil_filling_bolt]])
* 23mm socket or wrench (there is only limited space around the filling bolt; 23mm is not common so double check your inventory)
* 24mm socket
* Ratchet
* Torque wrench (44Nm / 33 lb-ft)
* Oil catch pan
* Floor jack + 4 jack stands
* (Optional) A lube pump as it can be hard to fill the oil in the differential.

== How to change the differential oil ==

=== Pre-conditions and jacking up the car ===
* Before your start it might be a good idea to drive the car for a while to increase the temperature of the oil in the differential.
* Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
* Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
* There are two front-jacking-points on each side. Place one jack stand on each side at the jacking-point that is the furthest away from the front wheel.
* Lower and remove your floor jack and continue jacking up the rear by using the jacking point on the differential.
* Place your jack stands on the left and right side jacking points at the rear of the car.

=== Draining the oil ===
* The differential is located at the back of the car / at the end of the driveshaft and has two bolts (drain and filling).
* The bolt on the bottom of the differential is the drain bolt while the upper bolt on the drivers side is the filling bolt.
* Place your oil catch pan below the differential drain bolt.
* It is a good idea to first remove the filling bolt and afterwards the draining bolt. This ensures that the filling bolt is not stuck and prevents your from ending up with a drained differential that you can't re-fill.
* First remove the differential oil filling bolt with a 23mm socket or wrench from the differential.
* Next remove the differential oil drain bolt with a 24mm socket from the differential.
* The old differential oil will now drain from the differential and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
* You will notice that once the filling bolt is gone, more oil will come out of the differential oil drain.
 
* Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the differential to "rinse or flush" the differential with the new oil.
* Wait until no oil (either old or new from "rinsing") comes out of the differential.

=== Adding new differential oil ===
* Replace the old crush washer from the differential oil drain bolt. The drain bolt is magnetic so clean it and remove any metal parts.
* Usually the crush washer will have two sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the differential.
* Hand tighten the differential oil drain bolt. Then use your 24mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 44Nm / 33 lb-ft.
* Fill in the new differential oil through the filling hole until the differential oil starts to leak out of the filling hole.
* This is the indicator that there is enough oil in the differential (usually 0,8L / 0,8qts).
* Replace the old crush washer from the differential oil filling bolt.
* Usually the crush washer will have to sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the differential.
* Hand tighten the differential oil filling bolt. Then use your 23mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 44Nm / 33 lb-ft.

== How to make sure no old differential oil is left in the differential ==
This guarantees almost 100% that no old differential oil is left in your differential and that it has been exchanged completely with new oil. 
The same procedure is used by oil companies between test cycles in their R&D facilities. 
You might want to do this when changing to a different type or brand of oil.
* Repeat the steps [[Changing differential oil#How_to_change_the_differential_oil|How to change the differential oil]] three times and drive your car for a short time between each changing cycle.

Engine Oil and Filter Change

2024-08-14T08:16:44Z

Sneida:

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:Engine]]

== Engine Oil and filter change intervals ==
=== Engine oil change intervals ===
The owners and [[Service Manual|service manual]] recommends the following intervals for changing the [[engine oil]]:
* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 12.000km / 7.500miles or 1 year (which ever comes first)
* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Every 6.000km / 3.750miles or 6 months (which ever comes first)
Most owners drive their S2000 only during the summer months and do a service (which includes an engine oil change) during the winter. 
This means a service every 6 months and usually within 6.000km.

=== Engine oil filter change intervals ===
The owners and service manual recommends the following intervals for changing the engine oil filter:
* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 24.000km / 15.000miles or 1 year (which ever comes first)
* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Not mentioned 
Since the engine oil filter is relatively cheap and easy to replace it is highly recommended to replace the filter whenever you change your engine oil.

=== Definition of harsh driving conditions ===
The service manual states the following definition:
* Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
* Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freezing temperatures.
* In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
* Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
* Driving on mountainous roads.
* On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads. 
 
Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:
* Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagement.
* Long periods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
* Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).

== Recommended engine oil ==
See: [[Engine oil#Recommendations|Engine oil recommendations]]

== Recommended engine oil filter ==
It is highly recommended to only use the OEM filter with the part number "15400-PCX-004". 
There are several other options to choose from (even from Honda) but it seems like other filters can't keep up with the high oil flow speed that the F20C engine has. 
See: [[Oil filter]]

== Required tools and fluids ==
* 1x Honda oil filter #15400-PCX-0400.
* 4,8L / 5,1qts engine oil (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the engine)
* New crush [[washer]] for the oil drain bolt (14/24/Aluminium See: [[Washer#Engine_oil_drain_bolt]])
* 17mm socket
* Ratchet
* Torque wrench (24Nm / 18 lb-ft and 40Nm / 29 lb-ft)
* Filter wrench or filter socket for your ratchet
* Oil catch pan
* Floor jack + 4 jack stands
* Funnel (optional)

== How to change the engine oil ==

=== Pre-conditions and jacking up the car ===
* Make sure that the engine is not cold but also not too hot. 2-3 bars on the temp gauge are fine.
* Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
* Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
* There are two front-jacking-points on each side. Place one jack stand on each side at the jacking-point that is the furthest away from the front wheel.
* Lower and remove your floor jack and continue jacking up the rear by using the jacking point on the differential.
* Place your jack stands on the left and right side jacking points at the rear of the car.

=== Draining the engine oil and removing the oil filter ===
* The oil pan is located under the engine and the drain bolt is located on the front of the oil pan at passenger side.
* Place your oil catch pan below the engine oil drain bolt.
* Remove the engine oil filling cap on the top of the engine.
* Remove the engine oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the oil pan.
* The old engine oil will now drain from the oil pan and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
* While the engine oil is draining I recommend to also remove the oil filter. You will notice that once the filter is gone, more oil will come out of the engine oil drain.
* Remove the oil filter completely. Be careful as engine oil will leak out of the filter and engine. Make sure that the oil filter and its gasket both came off.
* The oil filter is located above the engine oil drain bolt.
 
* Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the engine to "rinse or flush" the engine with the new oil.
* Wait until no oil (either old or new from "rinsing") comes out of the engine.

=== Installing the new oil filter and adding new engine oil ===
* Fill the new oil filter about half full with fresh engine oil.
* Use your finger to to apply fresh engine oil to the gasket of the new oil filter.
* Screw the new oil filter on the engine until the gasket touches the engine.
* Now use a filter socket and a torque wrench to tighten the filter to 24Nm / 18 lb-ft or do 7/8 of a full turn of the filter.
* It is important to tighten the oil filter as described. There have been several cases where an oil filter came loose while driving. See: [[Oil filter#Loosening_oil_filter_while_driving|Loosening oil filter while driving]]
* Replace the old crush washer from the engine oil drain bolt.
* Usually the crush washer will have two sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the oil pan.
* Hand tighten the engine oil drain bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 40Nm / 29 lb-ft.
* You can now fill the rest of you new oil into the engine.
* Start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds.
* After 10 minutes check the oil level according to: [[Engine oil#Reading_the_oil_level_dipstick_correctly|Reading the oil level dipstick correctly]]

Brake Fluid Replacement

2024-08-14T08:13:38Z

Sneida: Created page with "== Brake Fluid Replacement == === Tools and Materials Needed === * Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) * Brake bleeder kit * Wrenches (various sizes) * Jack and jack stands * Wheel chocks * Catch container * Rubber tubing * Clean rags === Step-by-Step Instructions === # **Prepare the Vehicle:** # Ensure the car is parked on a level surface. # Securely jack up the car and place it on jack stands. # Remove all four wheels to access the brake calipers. # **Locate th..."

== Brake Fluid Replacement ==

=== Tools and Materials Needed ===
* Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4)
* Brake bleeder kit
* Wrenches (various sizes)
* Jack and jack stands
* Wheel chocks
* Catch container
* Rubber tubing
* Clean rags

=== Step-by-Step Instructions ===

# **Prepare the Vehicle:**
# Ensure the car is parked on a level surface.
# Securely jack up the car and place it on jack stands.
# Remove all four wheels to access the brake calipers.

# **Locate the Brake Fluid Reservoir:**
# Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir.
# Clean the area around the cap to prevent contamination.

# **Drain Old Brake Fluid:**
# Use a syringe or turkey baster to remove as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir.
# Fill the reservoir with new brake fluid.

# **Bleed the Brakes:**
# Starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder (usually the rear passenger side), attach a rubber tube to the bleeder valve and place the other end in a catch container.
# Have an assistant press the brake pedal slowly.
# Open the bleeder valve slightly and allow the old fluid to drain.
# Close the valve when no air bubbles are visible.
# Repeat the process for all four brakes, ensuring the fluid level in the reservoir never drops too low.

# **Final Check:**
# Once all four brakes are bled, check the fluid level in the reservoir and top it off if necessary.
# Reattach the wheels and lower the car.
# Test the brake pedal for firmness before driving.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Regular Maintenance Tasks

2024-08-14T08:12:24Z

Sneida: /* Regular Maintenance Tasks for Honda S2000 */

== Regular Maintenance Tasks for Honda S2000 ==

Maintaining a [[Honda S2000]] involves a series of regular servicing and maintenance tasks that are essential for ensuring the vehicle's longevity and performance.
The following is a detailed list of common and frequently recommended maintenance tasks for the Honda S2000.

=== Engine Oil and Filter Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 5,000 to 10,000 km or 6 months, whichever comes first.
* '''Details:''' Use high-quality synthetic oil (5W-40 or 10W-30) and a genuine or high-quality [[oil filter]].

=== Transmission Oil Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 50,000 km or as recommended.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda MTF or an equivalent transmission fluid suitable for the S2000's manual gearbox.

=== Differential oil Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 30,000 to 50,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use appropriate gear oil for the rear differential, often 75W-90.

=== Brake Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid for optimal performance.

=== Coolant Flush ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or 5 years.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda Long-Life Type 2 Coolant or a compatible alternative.

=== Clutch Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid, the same as the brake system.

=== Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 30,000 km or as needed.
* '''Details:''' Inspect regularly and replace if dirty or clogged.

=== Cabin Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 to 30,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Keeps the air inside the cabin clean and free of allergens.

=== Spark Plug Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use iridium or platinum spark plugs, as specified by Honda.

=== Valve Adjustment ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 40,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Adjust the valve clearances to maintain engine performance.

=== Tire Rotation and Balance ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 10,000 km or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Rotating the tires ensures even wear and prolongs tire life.

=== Wheel Alignment ===
* '''Frequency:''' As needed, typically every 30,000 km or if the car shows signs of misalignment.
* '''Details:''' Ensures proper handling and tire wear.

=== Brake Pad and Rotor Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or with each tire rotation.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear and replace pads and rotors as necessary.

=== Battery Check and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Check annually; replace every 4-5 years.
* '''Details:''' Ensure the battery is holding a charge and the terminals are clean.

=== Fuel Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 80,000 to 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Maintains fuel system efficiency and engine performance.

=== Timing Chain Tensioner Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or if there is noise.
* '''Details:''' Ensures the timing chain operates smoothly; replace if noisy or faulty.

=== Suspension and Steering Components Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Check for wear or damage to bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc.

=== Drive Belt Inspection and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Inspect every 20,000 km; replace every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear, cracks, or slack.

=== Power Steering Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 50,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda PSF or an equivalent power steering fluid.

=== Exhaust System Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Annually or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Check for leaks, corrosion, or damage.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Changing transmission oil

2024-08-14T08:02:32Z

Sneida: Sneida moved page Changing transmission oil to Transmission Oil Change

#REDIRECT [[Transmission Oil Change]]

Transmission Oil Change

2024-08-14T08:02:32Z

Sneida: Sneida moved page Changing transmission oil to Transmission Oil Change

[[Category:Maintenance]]

== Transmission oil change intervals ==
The owners and service manual recommends the following intervals:
* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 144.000km / 90.000miles or 6 years (which ever comes first)
* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Every 48.000km / 30.000miles or 6 months (which ever comes first)

=== Definition of harsh driving conditions ===
The service manual states the following definition:
* Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
* Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freezing temperatures.
* In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
* Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
* Driving on mountainous roads.
* On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads. 
 
Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:
* Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagement.
* Long periods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
* Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).

== Recommended transmission oil ==
See: [[Transmission oil#Recommendations|Transmission oil recommendations]]

== Required tools and fluids ==
* 1,6L/1,6qts transmission oil (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the transmission)
* New crush washer for the oil drain bolt (Honda #91409-14000 / 14/24/Aluminium / See: [[Washer#Transmission_oil_drain_bolt]])
* New crush washer for the oil filling bolt (Honda #91409-20000 / 20/x/Aluminium / See: [[Washer#Transmission_oil_filling_bolt]])
* 17mm socket
* Ratchet
* Torque wrench (40Nm / 29 lb-ft and 44Nm / 33 lb-ft)
* Oil catch pan
* Floor jack + 4 jack stands
* A lube pump since it is hard to fill the transmission without it

== How to change the transmission oil ==

=== Pre-conditions and jacking up the car ===
* Before you start it might be a good idea to drive the car for a while to increase the temperature of the oil in the transmission.
* Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
* Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
* There are two front-jacking-points on each side. Place one jack stand on each side at the jacking-point that is the furthest away from the front wheel.
* Lower and remove your floor jack and continue jacking up the rear by using the jacking point on the differential.
* Place your jack stands on the left and right side jacking points at the rear of the car.

=== Draining the oil ===
* The transmission is located behind the engine and has two bolts (drain and filling) on the drivers side.
* The lower bolt is the drain bolt while the upper one is the filling bolt.
* Place your oil catch pan below the transmission drain bolt.
* It is a good idea to first remove the filling bolt and afterwards the draining bolt. This ensures that the filling bolt is not stuck and prevents you from ending up with a drained transmission that you can't re-fill.
* First remove the transmission oil filling bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission.
* Next remove the transmission oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission.
* The old transmission oil will now drain from the transmission and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
* You will notice that once the filling bolt is completely gone, more oil will come out of the transmission oil drain.
 
* Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the transmission to "rinse or flush" the transmission with the new oil.
* Wait until no oil (either old or new from "rinsing") comes out of the transmission.

=== Adding new transmission oil ===
* Replace the old crush washer from the transmission oil drain bolt.
* Usually the crush washer will have two sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the transmission.
* Hand tighten the transmission oil drain bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 40Nm / 29 lb-ft.
* Fill in the transmission oil through the filling hole until the new transmission oil starts to leak out of the filling hole.
* This is the indicator that there is enough transmission oil in the transmission (usually 1,6L / 1,6qts).
* Replace the old crush washer from the transmission oil filling bolt.
* Usually the crush washer will have to sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the transmission.
* Hand tighten the transmission oil filling bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 44Nm / 33 lb-ft.

== How to make sure no old transmission oil is left in the transmission ==
This guarantees almost 100% that no old transmission oil is left in your transmission and that it has been exchanged completely with new oil. 
The same procedure is used by oil companies between test cycles in their R&D facilities. 
You might want to do this when changing to a different type or brand of oil.
* Repeat the steps [[Changing transmission oil#How_to_change_the_transmission_oil|How to change the transmission oil]] three times and drive your car for a short time between each changing cycle.

Changing differential oil

2024-08-14T08:02:23Z

Sneida: Sneida moved page Changing differential oil to Differential Oil Change

#REDIRECT [[Differential Oil Change]]

Differential Oil Change

2024-08-14T08:02:23Z

Sneida: Sneida moved page Changing differential oil to Differential Oil Change

[[Category:Maintenance]]

== Differential oil change intervals ==
The owners and service manual recommends the following intervals:
* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 48.000km / 30.000miles or 2 years (which ever comes first)
* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Every 24.000km / 15.000miles or 1 year (which ever comes first)

=== Definition of harsh driving conditions ===
The service manual states the following definition:
* Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
* Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freezing temperatures.
* In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
* Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
* Driving on mountainous roads.
* On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads. 
 
Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:
* Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagement.
* Long periods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
* Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).

== Recommended differential oil ==
See: [[Differential oil#Recommendations|Differential oil recommendations]]

== Required tools and fluids ==
* 0,8L/0,8qts differential oil (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the differential)
* New crush washer for the oil drain bolt (Honda #90401-PCZ-003 / 18/x/Aluminium / See: [[Washer#Differential_oil_drain_bolt]])
* New crush washer for the oil filling bolt (Honda #90402-PCZ-003 / 18/x/Copper / See: [[Washer#Differential_oil_filling_bolt]])
* 23mm socket or wrench (there is only limited space around the filling bolt; 23mm is not common so double check your inventory)
* 24mm socket
* Ratchet
* Torque wrench (44Nm / 33 lb-ft)
* Oil catch pan
* Floor jack + 4 jack stands
* (Optional) A lube pump as it can be hard to fill the oil in the differential.

== How to change the differential oil ==

=== Pre-conditions and jacking up the car ===
* Before your start it might be a good idea to drive the car for a while to increase the temperature of the oil in the differential.
* Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
* Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
* There are two front-jacking-points on each side. Place one jack stand on each side at the jacking-point that is the furthest away from the front wheel.
* Lower and remove your floor jack and continue jacking up the rear by using the jacking point on the differential.
* Place your jack stands on the left and right side jacking points at the rear of the car.

=== Draining the oil ===
* The differential is located at the back of the car / at the end of the driveshaft and has two bolts (drain and filling).
* The bolt on the bottom of the differential is the drain bolt while the upper bolt on the drivers side is the filling bolt.
* Place your oil catch pan below the differential drain bolt.
* It is a good idea to first remove the filling bolt and afterwards the draining bolt. This ensures that the filling bolt is not stuck and prevents your from ending up with a drained differential that you can't re-fill.
* First remove the differential oil filling bolt with a 23mm socket or wrench from the differential.
* Next remove the differential oil drain bolt with a 24mm socket from the differential.
* The old differential oil will now drain from the differential and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
* You will notice that once the filling bolt is gone, more oil will come out of the differential oil drain.
 
* Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the differential to "rinse or flush" the differential with the new oil.
* Wait until no oil (either old or new from "rinsing") comes out of the differential.

=== Adding new differential oil ===
* Replace the old crush washer from the differential oil drain bolt. The drain bolt is magnetic so clean it and remove any metal parts.
* Usually the crush washer will have two sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the differential.
* Hand tighten the differential oil drain bolt. Then use your 24mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 44Nm / 33 lb-ft.
* Fill in the new differential oil through the filling hole until the differential oil starts to leak out of the filling hole.
* This is the indicator that there is enough oil in the differential (usually 0,8L / 0,8qts).
* Replace the old crush washer from the differential oil filling bolt.
* Usually the crush washer will have to sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the differential.
* Hand tighten the differential oil filling bolt. Then use your 23mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 44Nm / 33 lb-ft.

== How to make sure no old differential oil is left in the differential ==
This guarantees almost 100% that no old differential oil is left in your differential and that it has been exchanged completely with new oil. 
The same procedure is used by oil companies between test cycles in their R&D facilities. 
You might want to do this when changing to a different type or brand of oil.
* Repeat the steps [[Changing differential oil#How_to_change_the_differential_oil|How to change the differential oil]] three times and drive your car for a short time between each changing cycle.

Regular Maintenance Tasks

2024-08-14T08:02:19Z

Sneida: /* Differential Fluid Change */

== Regular Maintenance Tasks for Honda S2000 ==

Maintaining a Honda S2000 involves a series of regular servicing and maintenance tasks that are essential for ensuring the vehicle's longevity and performance.
The following is a detailed list of common and frequently recommended maintenance tasks for the Honda S2000.

=== Engine Oil and Filter Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 5,000 to 10,000 km or 6 months, whichever comes first.
* '''Details:''' Use high-quality synthetic oil (5W-40 or 10W-30) and a genuine or high-quality oil filter.

=== Transmission Oil Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 50,000 km or as recommended.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda MTF or an equivalent transmission fluid suitable for the S2000's manual gearbox.

=== Differential Oil Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 30,000 to 50,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use appropriate gear oil for the rear differential, often 75W-90.

=== Brake Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid for optimal performance.

=== Coolant Flush ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or 5 years.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda Long-Life Type 2 Coolant or a compatible alternative.

=== Clutch Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid, the same as the brake system.

=== Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 30,000 km or as needed.
* '''Details:''' Inspect regularly and replace if dirty or clogged.

=== Cabin Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 to 30,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Keeps the air inside the cabin clean and free of allergens.

=== Spark Plug Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use iridium or platinum spark plugs, as specified by Honda.

=== Valve Adjustment ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 40,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Adjust the valve clearances to maintain engine performance.

=== Tire Rotation and Balance ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 10,000 km or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Rotating the tires ensures even wear and prolongs tire life.

=== Wheel Alignment ===
* '''Frequency:''' As needed, typically every 30,000 km or if the car shows signs of misalignment.
* '''Details:''' Ensures proper handling and tire wear.

=== Brake Pad and Rotor Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or with each tire rotation.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear and replace pads and rotors as necessary.

=== Battery Check and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Check annually; replace every 4-5 years.
* '''Details:''' Ensure the battery is holding a charge and the terminals are clean.

=== Fuel Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 80,000 to 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Maintains fuel system efficiency and engine performance.

=== Timing Chain Tensioner Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or if there is noise.
* '''Details:''' Ensures the timing chain operates smoothly; replace if noisy or faulty.

=== Suspension and Steering Components Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Check for wear or damage to bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc.

=== Drive Belt Inspection and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Inspect every 20,000 km; replace every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear, cracks, or slack.

=== Power Steering Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 50,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda PSF or an equivalent power steering fluid.

=== Exhaust System Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Annually or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Check for leaks, corrosion, or damage.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Changing engine oil

2024-08-14T08:01:15Z

Sneida: Sneida moved page Changing engine oil to Engine Oil and Filter Change

#REDIRECT [[Engine Oil and Filter Change]]

Engine Oil and Filter Change

2024-08-14T08:01:15Z

Sneida: Sneida moved page Changing engine oil to Engine Oil and Filter Change

[[Category:Maintenance]]

== Engine oil and filter change intervals ==
=== Engine oil change intervals ===
The owners and service manual recommends the following intervals for changing the engine oil:
* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 12.000km / 7.500miles or 1 year (which ever comes first)
* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Every 6.000km / 3.750miles or 6 months (which ever comes first)
Most owners drive their S2000 only during the summer months and do a service (which includes an engine oil change) during the winter. 
This means a service every 6 months and usually within 6.000km.

=== Engine oil filter change intervals ===
The owners and service manual recommends the following intervals for changing the engine oil filter:
* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 24.000km / 15.000miles or 1 year (which ever comes first)
* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Not mentioned 
Since the engine oil filter is relatively cheap and easy to replace it is highly recommended to replace the filter whenever you change your engine oil.

=== Definition of harsh driving conditions ===
The service manual states the following definition:
* Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
* Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freezing temperatures.
* In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
* Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
* Driving on mountainous roads.
* On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads. 
 
Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:
* Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagement.
* Long periods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
* Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).

== Recommended engine oil ==
See: [[Engine oil#Recommendations|Engine oil recommendations]]

== Recommended engine oil filter ==
It is highly recommended to only use the OEM filter with the part number "15400-PCX-004". 
There are several other options to choose from (even from Honda) but it seems like other filters can't keep up with the high oil flow speed that the F20C engine has. 
See: [[Oil filter]]

== Required tools and fluids ==
* 1x Honda oil filter #15400-PCX-0400.
* 4,8L / 5,1qts engine oil (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the engine)
* New crush washer for the oil drain bolt (14/24/Aluminium See: [[Washer#Engine_oil_drain_bolt]])
* 17mm socket
* Ratchet
* Torque wrench (24Nm / 18 lb-ft and 40Nm / 29 lb-ft)
* Filter wrench or filter socket for your ratchet
* Oil catch pan
* Floor jack + 4 jack stands
* Funnel (optional)

== How to change the engine oil ==

=== Pre-conditions and jacking up the car ===
* Make sure that the engine is not cold but also not too hot. 2-3 bars on the temp gauge are fine.
* Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
* Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
* There are two front-jacking-points on each side. Place one jack stand on each side at the jacking-point that is the furthest away from the front wheel.
* Lower and remove your floor jack and continue jacking up the rear by using the jacking point on the differential.
* Place your jack stands on the left and right side jacking points at the rear of the car.

=== Draining the engine oil and removing the oil filter ===
* The oil pan is located under the engine and the drain bolt is located on the front of the oil pan at passenger side.
* Place your oil catch pan below the engine oil drain bolt.
* Remove the engine oil filling cap on the top of the engine.
* Remove the engine oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the oil pan.
* The old engine oil will now drain from the oil pan and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
* While the engine oil is draining I recommend to also remove the oil filter. You will notice that once the filter is gone, more oil will come out of the engine oil drain.
* Remove the oil filter completely. Be careful as engine oil will leak out of the filter and engine. Make sure that the oil filter and its gasket both came off.
* The oil filter is located above the engine oil drain bolt.
 
* Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the engine to "rinse or flush" the engine with the new oil.
* Wait until no oil (either old or new from "rinsing") comes out of the engine.

=== Installing the new oil filter and adding new engine oil ===
* Fill the new oil filter about half full with fresh engine oil.
* Use your finger to to apply fresh engine oil to the gasket of the new oil filter.
* Screw the new oil filter on the engine until the gasket touches the engine.
* Now use a filter socket and a torque wrench to tighten the filter to 24Nm / 18 lb-ft or do 7/8 of a full turn of the filter.
* It is important to tighten the oil filter as described. There have been several cases where an oil filter came loose while driving. See: [[Oil filter#Loosening_oil_filter_while_driving|Loosening oil filter while driving]]
* Replace the old crush washer from the engine oil drain bolt.
* Usually the crush washer will have two sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the oil pan.
* Hand tighten the engine oil drain bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 40Nm / 29 lb-ft.
* You can now fill the rest of you new oil into the engine.
* Start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds.
* After 10 minutes check the oil level according to: [[Engine oil#Reading_the_oil_level_dipstick_correctly|Reading the oil level dipstick correctly]]

Regular Maintenance Tasks

2024-08-14T08:00:42Z

Sneida: /* Oil and Filter Change */

== Regular Maintenance Tasks for Honda S2000 ==

Maintaining a Honda S2000 involves a series of regular servicing and maintenance tasks that are essential for ensuring the vehicle's longevity and performance.
The following is a detailed list of common and frequently recommended maintenance tasks for the Honda S2000.

=== Engine Oil and Filter Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 5,000 to 10,000 km or 6 months, whichever comes first.
* '''Details:''' Use high-quality synthetic oil (5W-40 or 10W-30) and a genuine or high-quality oil filter.

=== Transmission Fluid Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 50,000 km or as recommended.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda MTF or an equivalent transmission fluid suitable for the S2000's manual gearbox.

=== Differential Fluid Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 30,000 to 50,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use appropriate gear oil for the rear differential, often 75W-90.

=== Brake Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid for optimal performance.

=== Coolant Flush ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or 5 years.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda Long-Life Type 2 Coolant or a compatible alternative.

=== Clutch Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid, the same as the brake system.

=== Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 30,000 km or as needed.
* '''Details:''' Inspect regularly and replace if dirty or clogged.

=== Cabin Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 to 30,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Keeps the air inside the cabin clean and free of allergens.

=== Spark Plug Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use iridium or platinum spark plugs, as specified by Honda.

=== Valve Adjustment ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 40,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Adjust the valve clearances to maintain engine performance.

=== Tire Rotation and Balance ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 10,000 km or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Rotating the tires ensures even wear and prolongs tire life.

=== Wheel Alignment ===
* '''Frequency:''' As needed, typically every 30,000 km or if the car shows signs of misalignment.
* '''Details:''' Ensures proper handling and tire wear.

=== Brake Pad and Rotor Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or with each tire rotation.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear and replace pads and rotors as necessary.

=== Battery Check and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Check annually; replace every 4-5 years.
* '''Details:''' Ensure the battery is holding a charge and the terminals are clean.

=== Fuel Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 80,000 to 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Maintains fuel system efficiency and engine performance.

=== Timing Chain Tensioner Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or if there is noise.
* '''Details:''' Ensures the timing chain operates smoothly; replace if noisy or faulty.

=== Suspension and Steering Components Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Check for wear or damage to bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc.

=== Drive Belt Inspection and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Inspect every 20,000 km; replace every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear, cracks, or slack.

=== Power Steering Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 50,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda PSF or an equivalent power steering fluid.

=== Exhaust System Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Annually or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Check for leaks, corrosion, or damage.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Regular Maintenance Tasks

2024-08-14T06:48:34Z

Sneida: Created page with "== Regular Maintenance Tasks for Honda S2000 == Maintaining a Honda S2000 involves a series of regular servicing and maintenance tasks that are essential for ensuring the vehicle's longevity and performance. The following is a detailed list of common and frequently recommended maintenance tasks for the Honda S2000. === Oil and Filter Change === * '''Frequency:''' Every 5,000 to 10,000 km or 6 months, whichever comes first. * '''Details:''' Use high-quality synthetic o..."

== Regular Maintenance Tasks for Honda S2000 ==

Maintaining a Honda S2000 involves a series of regular servicing and maintenance tasks that are essential for ensuring the vehicle's longevity and performance.
The following is a detailed list of common and frequently recommended maintenance tasks for the Honda S2000.

=== Oil and Filter Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 5,000 to 10,000 km or 6 months, whichever comes first.
* '''Details:''' Use high-quality synthetic oil (5W-40 or 10W-30) and a genuine or high-quality oil filter.

=== Transmission Fluid Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 50,000 km or as recommended.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda MTF or an equivalent transmission fluid suitable for the S2000's manual gearbox.

=== Differential Fluid Change ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 30,000 to 50,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use appropriate gear oil for the rear differential, often 75W-90.

=== Brake Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid for optimal performance.

=== Coolant Flush ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or 5 years.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda Long-Life Type 2 Coolant or a compatible alternative.

=== Clutch Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 2 years.
* '''Details:''' Use DOT 4 brake fluid, the same as the brake system.

=== Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 30,000 km or as needed.
* '''Details:''' Inspect regularly and replace if dirty or clogged.

=== Cabin Air Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 to 30,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Keeps the air inside the cabin clean and free of allergens.

=== Spark Plug Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use iridium or platinum spark plugs, as specified by Honda.

=== Valve Adjustment ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 40,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Adjust the valve clearances to maintain engine performance.

=== Tire Rotation and Balance ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 10,000 km or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Rotating the tires ensures even wear and prolongs tire life.

=== Wheel Alignment ===
* '''Frequency:''' As needed, typically every 30,000 km or if the car shows signs of misalignment.
* '''Details:''' Ensures proper handling and tire wear.

=== Brake Pad and Rotor Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or with each tire rotation.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear and replace pads and rotors as necessary.

=== Battery Check and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Check annually; replace every 4-5 years.
* '''Details:''' Ensure the battery is holding a charge and the terminals are clean.

=== Fuel Filter Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 80,000 to 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Maintains fuel system efficiency and engine performance.

=== Timing Chain Tensioner Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 100,000 km or if there is noise.
* '''Details:''' Ensures the timing chain operates smoothly; replace if noisy or faulty.

=== Suspension and Steering Components Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 20,000 km or annually.
* '''Details:''' Check for wear or damage to bushings, ball joints, tie rods, etc.

=== Drive Belt Inspection and Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Inspect every 20,000 km; replace every 100,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Inspect for wear, cracks, or slack.

=== Power Steering Fluid Replacement ===
* '''Frequency:''' Every 50,000 km.
* '''Details:''' Use Honda PSF or an equivalent power steering fluid.

=== Exhaust System Inspection ===
* '''Frequency:''' Annually or with each oil change.
* '''Details:''' Check for leaks, corrosion, or damage.

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Adjusting Valve Clearance

2024-08-14T06:40:36Z

Sneida: Created page with "= How to Adjust Valve Clearance on a Honda S2000 = == Introduction == Adjusting the valve clearance (or valve lash) on a Honda S2000 is an essential maintenance task that ensures optimal engine performance and longevity. The S2000's F20C and F22C1 engines are high-revving powerplants that demand precise maintenance to operate smoothly. This guide will walk you through the process of checking and adjusting the valve clearance, a task recommended every 40,000 to 60,000 ki..."

= How to Adjust Valve Clearance on a Honda S2000 =

== Introduction ==
Adjusting the valve clearance (or valve lash) on a Honda S2000 is an essential maintenance task that ensures optimal engine performance and longevity. The S2000's F20C and F22C1 engines are high-revving powerplants that demand precise maintenance to operate smoothly. This guide will walk you through the process of checking and adjusting the valve clearance, a task recommended every 40,000 to 60,000 kilometers (25,000 to 37,000 miles) or if you notice unusual engine noise.

== Tools and Materials Needed ==
* Feeler gauge set
* 10mm and 14mm socket and ratchet
* Torque wrench
* Flathead screwdriver
* Valve cover gasket set (recommended for replacement)
* Permatex or similar RTV silicone sealant
* Honda Bond (for sealing camshaft end caps)
* Clean rags
* Brake cleaner or degreaser
* Service manual for torque specifications

== Safety Precautions ==
* '''Work on a cool engine:''' The engine should be completely cooled down before starting this procedure to avoid burns and ensure accurate measurements.
* '''Disconnect the battery:''' Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental starts while working on the engine.

== Step-by-Step Guide ==

=== 1. Preparation ===
# '''Park the car on a level surface''' and engage the parking brake.
# '''Open the hood''' and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
# '''Remove the engine cover:''' If your S2000 has the OEM plastic engine cover, remove it by unscrewing the bolts and lifting it off.

=== 2. Remove the Valve Cover ===
# '''Unplug the ignition coils:''' Disconnect the electrical connectors from the ignition coils and remove the coils by unscrewing the bolts that hold them in place.
# '''Remove the valve cover bolts:''' Use a 10mm socket to remove all the valve cover bolts. Keep track of the different bolt lengths and positions.
# '''Lift the valve cover off:''' Gently lift the valve cover off, being careful not to damage the gasket. You may need to tap it lightly with a rubber mallet if it's stuck. Set the valve cover aside.

=== 3. Rotate the Engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) ===
# '''Locate the crankshaft pulley:''' Use a 19mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt to rotate the engine clockwise.
# '''Set the engine to TDC for cylinder 1:''' Rotate the crankshaft until the “UP” mark on the camshaft gear is facing up and the two parallel lines on the camshaft gears are aligned with the cylinder head surface. This indicates that cylinder 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke.

=== 4. Check Valve Clearance ===
# '''Refer to the service manual for the correct clearance:''' For the F20C and F22C1 engines, the valve clearance should be
## Intake: 0.21–0.25 mm (0.008–0.010 inches),
## Exhaust: 0.28–0.32 mm (0.011–0.013 inches).
# '''Insert the feeler gauge:''' Slide the appropriate feeler gauge between the camshaft and the rocker arm for each valve. There should be a slight drag on the gauge when the clearance is correct.
# '''Record the measurements:''' Check and record the clearance for each valve. Note any valves that are out of specification.

=== 5. Adjust Valve Clearance ===
# '''Loosen the lock nut:''' If a valve needs adjustment, use a 10mm wrench to loosen the lock nut on the rocker arm.
# '''Adjust the clearance:''' Turn the adjustment screw with a flathead screwdriver to achieve the correct clearance. Hold the adjustment screw in place and tighten the lock nut. Recheck the clearance to ensure it didn’t change during tightening.
# '''Repeat for all valves:''' Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees clockwise to move to the next cylinder in the firing order (1-3-4-2). Repeat the checking and adjusting process for all valves.

=== 6. Reassemble the Engine ===
# '''Clean the valve cover:''' Remove any old gasket material and apply a thin layer of Honda Bond to the camshaft end caps.
# '''Install a new valve cover gasket:''' If the old gasket is damaged or worn, replace it with a new one. Place the valve cover back onto the cylinder head.
# '''Torque the valve cover bolts:''' Reinstall the valve cover bolts and tighten them to the specified torque in a crisscross pattern to ensure even pressure.
# '''Reinstall the ignition coils''' and reconnect the electrical connectors.
# '''Reconnect the battery''' and start the engine to check for any leaks or unusual noises.

=== 7. Final Checks ===
* '''Listen for valve noise:''' After reassembly, start the engine and listen for any abnormal ticking or knocking sounds, which could indicate that the valve clearances need further adjustment.
* '''Test drive:''' Take the car for a short drive to ensure everything is functioning correctly.

== Conclusion ==
Adjusting the valve clearance on your Honda S2000 is a vital maintenance task that can prevent engine damage and maintain performance. By following this guide, you can confidently perform this procedure yourself, ensuring your S2000 continues to run smoothly.

[[Category:Maintenance]]
[[Category:Engine]]

Loose Floor Mats

2024-08-14T06:27:56Z

Sneida:

== Service Bulletin A00-050: Loose Accessory Floor Mat Anchor in 2000 Honda S2000 ==

=== Introduction ===
This article details the Service Bulletin A00-050, issued by American Honda Motor Co., Inc., addressing a specific issue with the accessory floor mat anchor in the 2000 Honda S2000. The bulletin provides a solution for the loose driver’s floor mat anchor, which can move side to side due to its pivot on the mounting screw.

=== Symptom ===
* '''Problem Identified''': The driver’s floor mat anchor moves laterally, causing instability.

=== Cause ===
* '''Probable Cause''': The movement is due to the floor mat anchor pivoting on the mounting screw, leading to improper securing of the floor mat.

=== Corrective Action ===
* '''Recommended Solution''': Replace the original floor mat anchor with an improved part.

=== Parts Information ===
* '''Required Parts''':
** Floor Mat Anchor: P/N 08P15-S2A-101R1 (H/C 6473425)

=== Warranty Claim Information ===
* '''In Warranty''':

{| class="wikitable"
! Operation Number !! Flat Rate Time !! Defect Code !! Template ID !! Skill Level
|-
| 029105 || 0.5 hours || 049 || 00-050A || Repair Technician
|}

* '''Out of Warranty''':
Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.

=== Repair Procedure ===
# '''Preparation''':
## Slide the driver’s seat back to access the floor area.
## Locate the precut sections in the carpet.
[[File:Preparation_1_A00-050.jpg|thumb|center|200px|Locate the precuts in the carpet.]]
# '''Carpet Modification''':
## If two small precuts are found, use a utility knife to cut through the carpet between the smaller outboard precuts.
[[File:Preparation_1_A00-050.jpg|thumb|center|200px|Cutting through the carpet between the smaller outboard precuts.]]
# '''Removing Old Parts''':
## Gently pull back the carpet flap and remove the screw, anchor, and grommet from the body crossmember.
[[File:Preparation_2_A00-050.jpg|thumb|center|200px|Removing the old floor mat anchor and related parts.]]
# '''Installing New Parts''':
## Push the new plastic grommet into the square hole in the crossmember.
## Fold the carpet over the new anchor, tuck the edge under, and secure the anchor with the self-tapping screw.
[[File:Preparation_3_A00-050.jpg|thumb|center|200px|Installing the new floor mat anchor and securing it.]]
# '''Final Assembly''':
## Install the driver’s floor mat, ensuring the grommet fits securely over the pin.
[[File:Preparation_3_A00-050.jpg|thumb|center|200px|Final assembly of the driver’s floor mat with the new anchor.]]

=== Categories ===
* [[Category:Maintenance]]
* [[Category:Service Bulletins]]
* [[Category:Issues]]

File:Preparation 1 A00-050.jpg

2024-08-14T06:27:29Z