Transmission Oil Change: Difference between revisions

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Latest revision as of 08:17, 14 August 2024

Transmission oil change intervals

The owners and service manual recommends the following intervals:

Normal driving conditions: Every 144.000km / 90.000miles or 6 years (which ever comes first)
Harsh driving conditions: Every 48.000km / 30.000miles or 6 months (which ever comes first)

Definition of harsh driving conditions

The service manual states the following definition:

Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freezing temperatures.
In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
Driving on mountainous roads.
On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads.

Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:

Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagement.
Long periods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).

Recommended transmission oil

See: Transmission oil recommendations

Required tools and fluids

1,6L/1,6qts transmission oil (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the transmission)
New crush washer for the oil drain bolt (Honda #91409-14000 / 14/24/Aluminium / See: Washer#Transmission_oil_drain_bolt)
New crush washer for the oil filling bolt (Honda #91409-20000 / 20/x/Aluminium / See: Washer#Transmission_oil_filling_bolt)
17mm socket
Ratchet
Torque wrench (40Nm / 29 lb-ft and 44Nm / 33 lb-ft)
Oil catch pan
Floor jack + 4 jack stands
A lube pump since it is hard to fill the transmission without it

How to change the transmission oil

Pre-conditions and jacking up the car

Before you start it might be a good idea to drive the car for a while to increase the temperature of the oil in the transmission.
Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
There are two front-jacking-points on each side. Place one jack stand on each side at the jacking-point that is the furthest away from the front wheel.
Lower and remove your floor jack and continue jacking up the rear by using the jacking point on the differential.
Place your jack stands on the left and right side jacking points at the rear of the car.

Draining the oil

The transmission is located behind the engine and has two bolts (drain and filling) on the drivers side.
The lower bolt is the drain bolt while the upper one is the filling bolt.
Place your oil catch pan below the transmission drain bolt.
It is a good idea to first remove the filling bolt and afterwards the draining bolt. This ensures that the filling bolt is not stuck and prevents you from ending up with a drained transmission that you can't re-fill.
First remove the transmission oil filling bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission.
Next remove the transmission oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission.
The old transmission oil will now drain from the transmission and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
You will notice that once the filling bolt is completely gone, more oil will come out of the transmission oil drain.

Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the transmission to "rinse or flush" the transmission with the new oil.
Wait until no oil (either old or new from "rinsing") comes out of the transmission.

Adding new transmission oil

Replace the old crush washer from the transmission oil drain bolt.
Usually the crush washer will have two sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the transmission.
Hand tighten the transmission oil drain bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 40Nm / 29 lb-ft.
Fill in the transmission oil through the filling hole until the new transmission oil starts to leak out of the filling hole.
This is the indicator that there is enough transmission oil in the transmission (usually 1,6L / 1,6qts).
Replace the old crush washer from the transmission oil filling bolt.
Usually the crush washer will have to sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the transmission.
Hand tighten the transmission oil filling bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 44Nm / 33 lb-ft.

How to make sure no old transmission oil is left in the transmission

This guarantees almost 100% that no old transmission oil is left in your transmission and that it has been exchanged completely with new oil.
The same procedure is used by oil companies between test cycles in their R&D facilities.
You might want to do this when changing to a different type or brand of oil.

Repeat the steps How to change the transmission oil three times and drive your car for a short time between each changing cycle.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:Maintenance]]
+[[Category:Transmission]]
-== Transmission oil change intervalls ==
+== [[Transmission Oil|Transmission oil]] change intervals ==
-The owners and service manual recommends the following intervalls:
+The owners and [[Service Manual|service manual]] recommends the following intervals:
-* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 12.000km / 7.500miles or 1 year (which ever comes first)
+* '''Normal driving conditions:''' Every 144.000km / 90.000miles or 6 years (which ever comes first)
-* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Every 6.000km / 3.750miles or 6 months (which ever comes first)
+* '''Harsh driving conditions:''' Every 48.000km / 30.000miles or 6 months (which ever comes first)
-Most owners drive their S2000 only during the summer months and do a service (which includes an engine oil change) during the winter.<br>
-This means a service every 6 months and usually within 6.000km.
+=== Definition of harsh driving conditions ===
+The service manual states the following definition:
+* Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
+* Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freezing temperatures.
+* In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
+* Extensive idling or long periods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
+* Driving on mountainous roads.
+* On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads.<br>
+<br>
+Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:
+* Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagement.
+* Long periods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
+* Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).
 == Recommended transmission oil ==
-See: [[Transmission_oil#Recommendations]]
+See: [[Transmission oil#Recommendations|Transmission oil recommendations]]
 == Required tools and fluids ==
-* 1x Honda oil filter #15400-PCX-0400
+* 1,6L/1,6qts [[transmission oil]] (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the transmission)
-* 4,8L / 5,1 qts engine oil (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the engine)
+* New crush [[washer]] for the oil drain bolt (Honda #91409-14000 / 14/24/Aluminium / See: [[Washer#Transmission_oil_drain_bolt]])
-* New crush washer for the oil drain bolt
+* New crush washer for the oil filling bolt (Honda #91409-20000 / 20/x/Aluminium / See: [[Washer#Transmission_oil_filling_bolt]])
 * 17mm socket
 * Ratchet
-* Torque wrench (24Nm / 18 lb-ft and 40Nm / 29 lb-ft)
+* Torque wrench (40Nm / 29 lb-ft and 44Nm / 33 lb-ft)
-* Filter wrench or filter socket for yor ratchet
 * Oil catch pan
-* Floor jack + jack stands
+* Floor jack + 4 jack stands
-* Funnel (optional)
+* A lube pump since it is hard to fill the transmission without it
 == How to change the transmission oil ==
 === Pre-conditions and jacking up the car ===
-* Make sure that the engine is not cold but also not too hot. 2-3 bars on the temp gauge are fine.
+* Before you start it might be a good idea to drive the car for a while to increase the temperature of the oil in the transmission.
 * Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
 * Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
@@ Line 34: / Line 46: @@
 === Draining the oil ===
-* The oil pan is located under the engine and the drain bolt is located on the front of the oil pan at passenger side.
+* The transmission is located behind the engine and has two bolts (drain and filling) on the drivers side.
-* Place your oil catch pan below the engine oil drain bolt.
+* The lower bolt is the drain bolt while the upper one is the filling bolt.
-* Remove the engine oil filling cap on the top of the engine.
+* Place your oil catch pan below the transmission drain bolt.
-* Remove the engine oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the oil pan.
+* It is a good idea to first remove the filling bolt and afterwards the draining bolt. This ensures that the filling bolt is not stuck and prevents you from ending up with a drained transmission that you can't re-fill.
-* The engine oil will now drain from the oil pan and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
+* First remove the transmission oil filling bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission.
-* While the engine oil is draining I recommend to also remove the oil filter. You will notice that once the filter is gone, more oil will come out of the engine oil drain.
+* Next remove the transmission oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission.
-* Remove the oil filter completely. Be carefull as engine oil will leak out of the filter and engine. Make sure that the oil filter and its gasket both came off.
+* The old transmission oil will now drain from the transmission and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
-* The oil filter is located above the engine oil drain bolt.
+* You will notice that once the filling bolt is completely gone, more oil will come out of the transmission oil drain.
 <br>
-* Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the engine to "flush" the engine with the new oil.
+* Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the transmission to "rinse or flush" the transmission with the new oil.
-* Wait until no oil (either old or new from "flushing") comes out of the engine.
+* Wait until no oil (either old or new from "rinsing") comes out of the transmission.
+=== Adding new transmission oil ===
+* Replace the old crush washer from the transmission oil drain bolt.
+* Usually the crush washer will have two sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the transmission.
+* Hand tighten the transmission oil drain bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 40Nm / 29 lb-ft.
+* Fill in the transmission oil through the filling hole until the new transmission oil starts to leak out of the filling hole.
+* This is the indicator that there is enough transmission oil in the transmission (usually 1,6L / 1,6qts).
+* Replace the old crush washer from the transmission oil filling bolt.
+* Usually the crush washer will have to sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the transmission.
+* Hand tighten the transmission oil filling bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 44Nm / 33 lb-ft.
-===  Adding new transmission oil ===
+== How to make sure no old transmission oil is left in the transmission ==
-* Fill the new oil filter about half full with fresh engine oil.
+This guarantees almost 100% that no old transmission oil is left in your transmission and that it has been exchanged completely with new oil.<br>
-* Use your finger to to apply fresh engine oil to the gasket of the new oil filter.
+The same procedure is used by oil companies between test cycles in their R&D facilities.<br>
-* Screw the new oil filter on the engine until the gasket touches the engine.
+You might want to do this when changing to a different type or brand of oil.
-* Now either use a filter socket and a torque wrench to tighten to filter to 24Nm / 18 lb-ft or do 7/8 of a full turn of the filter.
+* Repeat the steps [[Changing transmission oil#How_to_change_the_transmission_oil|How to change the transmission oil]] three times and drive your car for a short time between each changing cycle.<br>
-* Replace the old crush washer from the engine oil drain bolt.
-* Usually the crush washer will have to sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the oil pan.
-* Hand tighten the engine oil drain bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 40Nm / 29 lb-ft.
-* You can now fill the rest of you new oil into the engine.
-* Start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds.
-* After 10 minutes check the oil level according to: [[Engine_oil#Reading_the_oil_level_dipstick_correctly]]