Transmission Oil Change: Difference between revisions
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=== Pre-conditions and jacking up the car === | === Pre-conditions and jacking up the car === | ||
* | * Before your start it might be a good idea to drive the car for a while to increase the temperature of the oil in the transmission. | ||
* Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake. | * Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake. | ||
* Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine. | * Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine. | ||
| Line 45: | Line 45: | ||
=== Draining the oil === | === Draining the oil === | ||
* The | * The transmission is located behind the engine and has two bolts (drain and filling) on the drivers side. | ||
* Place your oil catch pan below the | * The lower bolt is the drain bolt while the upper one is the filling bolt. | ||
* Remove the | * Place your oil catch pan below the transmission drain bolt . | ||
* Remove the transmission oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission. | |||
* The | * The transmission oil will now drain from the transmission and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan. | ||
<br> | <br> | ||
* Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the | * Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the transmission to "flush" the transmission with the new oil. | ||
* Wait until no oil (either old or new from "flushing") comes out of the | * Wait until no oil (either old or new from "flushing") comes out of the transmission. | ||
=== Adding new transmission oil === | === Adding new transmission oil === | ||
Revision as of 15:56, 20 November 2019
Transmission oil change intervalls
The owners and service manual recommends the following intervalls:
- Normal driving conditions: Every 144.000km / 90.000miles or 6 year (which ever comes first)
- Harsh driving conditions: Every 48.000km / 30.000miles or 6 months (which ever comes first)
Definition of harsh driving conditions
The service manual states the following definition:
- Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
- Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freering temperatures.
- In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
- Extensive idling or long preiods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
- Driving on mountainous roads.
- On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads.
Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:
- Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagment.
- Long preiods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
- Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).
Recommended transmission oil
See: Transmission_oil#Recommendations
Required tools and fluids
- 2L / 2qts transmission oil (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the transmission)
- New crush washer for the oil drain bolt (Honda #91409-14000)
- New crush washer for the oil filling bolt (Honda #91409-20000)
- 17mm socket
- Ratchet
- Torque wrench (39Nm / 29 lb-ft and 44Nm / 33 lb-ft)
- Oil catch pan
- Floor jack + 4 jack stands
- A lube pump since it is hard to fill the transmission without it
How to change the transmission oil
Pre-conditions and jacking up the car
- Before your start it might be a good idea to drive the car for a while to increase the temperature of the oil in the transmission.
- Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
- Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
- There are two front-jacking-points on each side. Place one jack stand on each side at the jacking-point that is the furthest away from the front wheel.
- Lower and remove your floor jack and continue jacking up the rear by using the jacking point on the differential.
- Place your jack stands on the left and right side jacking points at the rear of the car.
Draining the oil
- The transmission is located behind the engine and has two bolts (drain and filling) on the drivers side.
- The lower bolt is the drain bolt while the upper one is the filling bolt.
- Place your oil catch pan below the transmission drain bolt .
- Remove the transmission oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the transmission.
- The transmission oil will now drain from the transmission and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
- Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the transmission to "flush" the transmission with the new oil.
- Wait until no oil (either old or new from "flushing") comes out of the transmission.
Adding new transmission oil
- Fill the new oil filter about half full with fresh engine oil.
- Use your finger to to apply fresh engine oil to the gasket of the new oil filter.
- Screw the new oil filter on the engine until the gasket touches the engine.
- Now either use a filter socket and a torque wrench to tighten to filter to 24Nm / 18 lb-ft or do 7/8 of a full turn of the filter.
- Replace the old crush washer from the engine oil drain bolt.
- Usually the crush washer will have to sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the oil pan.
- Hand tighten the engine oil drain bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 40Nm / 29 lb-ft.
- You can now fill the rest of you new oil into the engine.
- Start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds.
- After 10 minutes check the oil level according to: Engine_oil#Reading_the_oil_level_dipstick_correctly