Transmission Oil Change: Difference between revisions
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== Required tools and fluids == | == Required tools and fluids == | ||
* | * 2L / 2qts transmission oil (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the transmission) | ||
* New crush washer for the oil drain bolt (Honda #91409-14000) | |||
* New crush washer for the oil drain bolt | * New crush washer for the oil filling bolt (Honda #91409-20000) | ||
* 17mm socket | * 17mm socket | ||
* Ratchet | * Ratchet | ||
* Torque wrench ( | * Torque wrench (39Nm / 29 lb-ft and 44Nm / 33 lb-ft) | ||
* Oil catch pan | * Oil catch pan | ||
* Floor jack + jack stands | * Floor jack + 4 jack stands | ||
* | * A lube pump since it is hard to fill the transmission without it | ||
== How to change the transmission oil == | == How to change the transmission oil == |
Revision as of 15:44, 20 November 2019
Transmission oil change intervalls
The owners and service manual recommends the following intervalls:
- Normal driving conditions: Every 144.000km / 90.000miles or 6 year (which ever comes first)
- Harsh driving conditions: Every 48.000km / 30.000miles or 6 months (which ever comes first)
Definition of harsh driving conditions
The service manual states the following definition:
- Less than 8km (5 miles) per trip on non-freezing weather conditions.
- Less than 16km (10m miles) per trip on freering temperatures.
- In hot weather climates with temperatures above 32°C/90°F.
- Extensive idling or long preiods of stop-and-go driving (e.g. as taxi or commercial deliver vehicle).
- Driving on mountainous roads.
- On muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads.
Additionally definition from other S2000 owners:
- Sport and fast paced driving with a lot of VTEC engagment.
- Long preiods of driving at 150km/h (93 mph) or above.
- Racetrack driving (most people recommend to change the oil after each racetrack visit).
Recommended transmission oil
See: Transmission_oil#Recommendations
Required tools and fluids
- 2L / 2qts transmission oil (or a little more if you would like to "flush" the transmission)
- New crush washer for the oil drain bolt (Honda #91409-14000)
- New crush washer for the oil filling bolt (Honda #91409-20000)
- 17mm socket
- Ratchet
- Torque wrench (39Nm / 29 lb-ft and 44Nm / 33 lb-ft)
- Oil catch pan
- Floor jack + 4 jack stands
- A lube pump since it is hard to fill the transmission without it
How to change the transmission oil
Pre-conditions and jacking up the car
- Make sure that the engine is not cold but also not too hot. 2-3 bars on the temp gauge are fine.
- Put the car in the first gear and set the parking brake.
- Jack up the car on the front by using the central jacking point near the engine.
- There are two front-jacking-points on each side. Place one jack stand on each side at the jacking-point that is the furthest away from the front wheel.
- Lower and remove your floor jack and continue jacking up the rear by using the jacking point on the differential.
- Place your jack stands on the left and right side jacking points at the rear of the car.
Draining the oil
- The oil pan is located under the engine and the drain bolt is located on the front of the oil pan at passenger side.
- Place your oil catch pan below the engine oil drain bolt.
- Remove the engine oil filling cap on the top of the engine.
- Remove the engine oil drain bolt with a 17mm socket from the oil pan.
- The engine oil will now drain from the oil pan and you might need to re-adjust your oil catch pan.
- While the engine oil is draining I recommend to also remove the oil filter. You will notice that once the filter is gone, more oil will come out of the engine oil drain.
- Remove the oil filter completely. Be carefull as engine oil will leak out of the filter and engine. Make sure that the oil filter and its gasket both came off.
- The oil filter is located above the engine oil drain bolt.
- Once all the oil has be drained I like to fill fresh oil into the engine to "flush" the engine with the new oil.
- Wait until no oil (either old or new from "flushing") comes out of the engine.
Adding new transmission oil
- Fill the new oil filter about half full with fresh engine oil.
- Use your finger to to apply fresh engine oil to the gasket of the new oil filter.
- Screw the new oil filter on the engine until the gasket touches the engine.
- Now either use a filter socket and a torque wrench to tighten to filter to 24Nm / 18 lb-ft or do 7/8 of a full turn of the filter.
- Replace the old crush washer from the engine oil drain bolt.
- Usually the crush washer will have to sides, one that has a rounded edge and one that has a sharper edge. The sharp edge should face the oil pan.
- Hand tighten the engine oil drain bolt. Then use your 17mm socket and a torque wrench and tighten it to 40Nm / 29 lb-ft.
- You can now fill the rest of you new oil into the engine.
- Start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds.
- After 10 minutes check the oil level according to: Engine_oil#Reading_the_oil_level_dipstick_correctly